AUTOSAVER88 Catalytic Converter Compatible with Camry 2.2L 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001, Solara 2.2L 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 Direct-Fit (EPA Compliant)

Executive Summary: I’m delighted to report that the Autosaver88 cat assembly (from China, of course) was exactly as advertised; it was well-packed, arrived promptly and undamaged, and replaced the stolen cats on a 2007 Prius perfectly. I have no way to assess any change in emissions (Minnesota did away with auto inspections a couple of decades ago), but it’s EPA-certified and I presume it has restored the Prius’s excellent clean-air performance. In any case, the fault code cleared (after I replaced the stolen rear O2 sensor as well), and the Prius is happy and quiet again. Highly recommended. (Unfortunately, I see that this item isn't currently available now, so this long review may be for naught.) I suspect most everybody is here under similar circumstances; for more of the story and some advice, read on. The Details: The other night, some lowlife scumbags stole the two catalytic converters (and their attached rear O2 sensor) from my grandson’s 2007 Prius while it was parked on the street in front of his house, adding insult to injury by damaging the corner of his car while carelessly jacking it up to unbolt and cut out the cats. For a few bucks on the illicit precious-metals market they cost him several day’s work as an Uber Eats driver and the cost and inconvenience of replacing the cats. Fortunately, I’m a decent “shade-tree” mechanic, and I offered to help him replace the cats. Upon contacting a couple of Toyota dealers I discovered that an OEM replacement includes as a single unit the two cats, the resonator, and all piping from exhaust-header flange to the muffler flange, and costs upwards of $2,000. Notwithstanding the fact that the car itself isn’t worth much more than that, due to this theft epidemic both dealers were backordered for weeks and each had several cars on their lots awaiting cats. So it was time to look elsewhere. (Pity California owners; state law requires OEM, and it’s an inspection item.) I started on eBay, and found direct-fit replacement cats (from exhaust flange to resonator) for as little as $120. However, I watched a YouTube video about the possible pitfalls of buying one of these (poor weld quality, resulting in lousy fit at the header flange—and exhaust leaks). So I decided to try Amazon, where I felt I’d have a bit more recourse. To my surprise, I found only two for the Prius—this one and a Walker-branded unit costing $100 more. Since they seemed to have more or less identical specs and certifications, I crossed my fingers and decided to save the $100. Fortunately, it turned out to be a good decision. Installation Advice: I had a few bad moments after putting a caliper on both the stub of the cut-off pipe behind the original cats and the matching pipe that I presumed was sized to fit inside that stub; they seemed to be about the same size. I thus thought I was in for some welding, so I held the new assembly in place to make matching marks to get the correct fit angle and length. I then removed the resonator and pipe assembly in front of the muffler to be able to weld the whole circumference (very difficult to do with it in place and overhead). This involved removing two rubber suspension “doughnuts,” two stubborn bolts in the muffler flange that finally yielded to some penetrant and my impact wrench, and more easily unbolting a chassis-stiffening plate below the pipe. Once I had both assemblies out on the floor, I discovered that the new rear pipe actually fits snugly _over_ the old stub, and extends back to the pipe weld at the resonator. I was thus able to slide the two together, match up my angle marks, and clamp them together with the included clamp. (I’m not sure it was necessary due to the snug fit, but I coated both pipes with muffler cement before assembly, just to make sure there were no leaks.) Note: I was able to do this because the thieves “considerately” left me about a 1 1/2” stub in front of the resonator; they easily could have cut it right at the resonator, which would make welding the only option. Reassembly was the reverse of removal, and went pretty smoothly except for one of the new header flange bolt/springs; I had trouble compressing the spring enough to engage the first threads on the bolt. A quick trip to my vise to slightly pre-compress that spring solved that problem. BTW, if I had it to do over again (and knew about the pipe fit in advance), I might not have removed the resonator/pipe assembly from the car. I think just removing the four rubber hangars that suspend the whole exhaust system would provide enough “play” to make room for inserting the old pipe into the back of the new cat assembly. However, that fit was tight enough that I had to twist the two assemblies back and forth to get them fully engaged; that might be difficult without removing the resonator/pipe assembly. As alluded above, you’ll also need a new O2 sensor, as the thieves simply cut the wire on the old one and steal it as well. There are a bunch of these on Amazon for a wide range of prices; I picked one for $27 that reviewed well. BTW, this sensor goes through a grommet in a large hole in the exhaust-pipe tunnel and plugs into a connector under the passenger-side tunnel carpet. Look for a video on YouTube by “HadesOmega” that shows how to access this (in the last of a 3-part series on Prius cat replacement). Theft Prevention Advice: I’m betting you’re here because you had your cat stolen (they normally last the life of the car), so protect your new cat; these cars are the favorite targets of cat thieves, and many Prius replacement cats have been ripped off as well. Not only do Prius cats contain more platinum, rhodium, and palladium than most other vehicles, those of this generation are relatively easy to steal quickly. All it takes is a lightweight floor jack, a 14mm socket wrench with an extension (for the two header bolts), and a pipe cutter or battery sawzall (to cut the pipe in front of the resonator). There are a number of security-camera videos showing it being done in a minute or two. I won’t go into detail on protection schemes; a search on “catalytic converter protection” will turn up several solutions. These range from kludgy-looking clamp/cable devices that make cutting more difficult, to underbody plates that entirely block access to the cats (HadesOmega has videos on installing one of these), to alarms of various sorts. All seemed to fall into the $150-200 price range. Being handy (and cheap, after already spending about $200) I decided to fabricate my own; I chose the plate approach, using a sheet of 1/8” aluminum. It’s not as fancy or as secure as the commercial version(s), but it looks formidable enough that it should convince thieves to move on to another victim (or at least require them to spend a lot more time and make a lot more noise than is probably safe). You have my condolences; I hope this helps.

Like most others here, I purchased this unit to replace a stolen Catalytic Converter. Prior to purchasing this item, based on various on-line reviews of other replacement units, i had three concerns: - Quality of the flange connection with the exhaust manifold and ability to get a good seal - The overall length of the replacement unit - I had less then 2" of remaining exhaust pipe available for connection - Would the new pipe fit over the remaining pipe None of these items were an issue. The build quality of the unit seems high (at least what you can see externally). The front flange was well made and along with the gasket provided made a good seal. The overall length of the unit was perfect. The pipe length allowed fitment all the way up to the start of the rear muffler. The end pipe of the replacement unit was flared just enough to provide a snug fit over the stub i had remaining. After deburring the stub end and with a little grease, we were able to twist the new unit on to the stub all the way the rear box. For fitment, I removed the brace (4 bolts) across the exhaust tunnel, disconnected the remaining pipe at the flange by the rear axle and then disconnected the pipe from the rubber hangers. With the old unit off the car I then attached the new unit and approximately aligned the two parts (tip: the hanger pegs and the front flange bolt holes should roughly align), but did not clamp yet. I then rehung the combined unit on the rubber hangers and made the final alignment of the front section with the exhaust manifold flange (tip: make sure the old exhaust gasket is not still attached the to exhaust manifold). I then loosely connected the the new unit to the exhaust manifold with the supplied bolts. I then reconnected the rear flange to the rear muffler. Finally I clamped the new and old units together, then tightened everything up and replaced the cross brace. I then installed the new O2 sensor (tip: the o2 port in the cat has a plug - remove this before you install the unit on the car). Everything went smoothly and no apparent leaks. Job took about 90 minutes start to finish and was done on the garage floor with the front wheels on car ramps and trolley jack to raise the car to the top of the suspension travel without lifting the wheels. After road testing for about 25 miles, completed job by fitting a Cat Shield (about another 90 minutes). I will update the review if we have any issues later on.

The pipe for starters had a place for 2 oxygen sensors. These cars only had 2 in this pipe if California emissions. No big deal if a threaded plug had been included like many other manufacturers send with theirs. Second problem is they sent flat gaskets for the exhaust and all toyota use a ring style seal for their exhaust pipe flanges. So we had to not only go driving around hunting down a threaded plug, but we had to hunt around all the part stores around to get 2 flange seals to make this work. Thirdly this pipe wasn't bent right so to install you had to put the flex joint in a complete bind to be able to bolt it up to the car. 4th issue was they welded the oxygen sensor bung to low to the right side of the pipe for the oxygen sensor to reach the plug in. We had to unhook the car side plug in and zip tie it down lower to make the sensor be able to reach and be out of the way. I would definitely steer clear if you don't have a truck load of patience and time.

installation presque parfaite les bolts d'assemblage sont trop courtes petite perte de temps mineur

fit numero un

Fits good. But needs better gasket. For a 22 year old car this will do. Unless you want to buy a expensive one and pimp out your ride but I don't think your not being your camry to a car show lol

Hi Dont buy this product. Less than 1 year after its installed, the part broke down. the Cat convertor is now rattling as something inside must have broken off.

Belle qualité de produit , l'image est bien représentative ! Pour un Toyota Corolla 2006 le fit a été parfait !