M13 X 1.5MM Oil Drain Plug Thread Repair Tool Kit

My M12 drain plug was stripped out on my 85 honda 350x. The tap went right in, straight too! Covered it with grease and tapped away. Then flushed the engine with some oil. And the plug went right in and tightened securely! Washers leave something to be desired. But bolts and tap are good enough! Would recommend to anyone with a stripped plug. Super easy to use and decent quality.

Worked great! My 72 year old mother took her Rav4 in for an oil change and came back with a leaky plug covered in blue loctite 😠The threads were so stripped that I bought this kit, retapped new threads and installed the larger oil plug. No more oil leak!Due to the position of the drain plug, I wasnt able to use a standard T handle to grip the Tap but I was able to use a similar sized socket to fit the tap into and and wrench it in.

I had a small engine with an aluminum crankcase that had the threads stripped. I did some measuring, and the old plug was 12MM X 1.5, the same thread pitch, just a bit bigger. I bought a 13MM X 1.5 tap, and carefully enlarged the old threads, so one of these would fit.Seems to work well, it seems to tighten up properly now, and holds well. Doesn't thread in as smoothly as the original plug did when the engine was new, but there is a 50-50 chance that was the tap more than the plug. Anyway, it was a very easy fix (just tap the hole bigger, and use one of these - I didn't even have to drill out the original hole). If you do this on an engine or gearcase, just be sure to orient it so that any chips that fall downward will fall OUT of, and not IN the gearcase.

A shop had drained the oil when they did a service repair to my car. Next time I did the oil change myself, I discovered that the threads were pretty damaged and in fact came out when I removed the drain plug. The shop had put a heli coil on the drain plug. So anyways when I put the drain plug back in, it didn't have enough oil pan threads anymore to grab onto and fully tighten.This kit saved the oil pan. I was nervous about cutting new threads 1mm larger but I went for it and things turned out great. Several reviews say that folks have had leaks from the drain plug when all was done. Thankfully this was not my case. The drain plug went in nicely, cinched tight, and it's all dry around the drain after filling and driving the vehicle.This kit was well worth it in my case.

This item worked perfectly when I stripped out my 12 X1.5 oil plug on my 2014 BMW X5 with an aluminum oil pan. I purchased a 13 X1.5 for my application. Here are some tips to get it to work right. 1: When you run the tap into the stripped hole, do not drill anything out. It will work, but you have to push it a little forcefully to get it to start. Once it is started, do not push it all. 2: when you are running the tap through, make sure there is about a cup of oil in your oil pan and it is dripping out slowly. This will carry the aluminum chips outside so they will not stay in the oil pan. 3: Do not use a ratchet or pliers or power or anything single handed. Use a tap wrench that has handles on both sides. It is imperative that you put this in perpendicularly, so the bolt will seat perpendicularly, and you will not have any leaks. 4: When you run it in, advance about a half turn, and then go backwards about a quarter turn, and then advance another half turn and go backwards, and so on until you are all the way in. This will allow you to clear the chips so they come out with the dripping oil. 5: when you put the new bolt in, use a torque wrench. 6: The reason they give you six bolts is so every time you change the oil use a new bolt. This is because the crush washer is single use only.

Worked brilliantly to re-tap a stripped oil drain hole on a stock 2004 MDX oil pan from a M14x1.5 to M15x1.5. The threads are about 3/4 inch deep, so there is plenty of metal to tap. Used a small ratchet with a 12-point 10mm socket, did some slow back-and-forth (5 minutes), then flushed all the metal out with a few quarts of oil (a ton of metal shavings in the drain pan). New drain bolt threads in by hand and torques to the recommended 29 lb/ft without argument.I don't quite get why the package includes so many bolts as opposed to just crush washers, but maybe they get stuck on the bolt once crushed (Note: the crush washers are narrow aluminum and fairly loose on the bolt).Very happy with the results.The alternative was Helicoil (over $100) or a new drain pan, both required removal of pan and exhaust.

The kit worked on a 2017 BMW X5 (N55) just as you would expect it to. No concerns. The plug is of high quality. The M13x1.5 kit comes with aluminum crush washers (which is not obvious if you look at the listing pictures). But usually on BMW copper washers are used. But it's a different story how to find M13 copper crush washers.I found that in some other kits the plugs are made strangely and won't go all the way into the thread and won't seal properly. This kit has it right!

Had an M12 oil drain plug that was chewed up and cross threaded from whoever did the last oil change. I used the one size larger M13 and made sure to use the correct thread pitch as OEM. Oiled up the tool with assembly lube, which I had laying around since it is very thick and sticky to catch metal shavings.Process went well, and it saved me the pain of having to remove or replace the oil pan, which is a very time consuming and expensive job. I cleaned up everything thoroughly and finished the job with the supplied drain plugs and washers. Definitely recommend for the DIYer. Take your time and do it properly, with the right tools.