












🏡 Elevate your outdoor game with storage that works as hard as you do!
The Rubbermaid Outdoor Shed (7x3 feet) combines durable double-wall plastic construction with weather and impact resistance, offering a secure, lockable storage solution. Its compact design fits tight spaces, while easy two-person assembly with common tools means you can set it up quickly. Ideal for professionals seeking reliable, low-maintenance outdoor storage that stands up to the elements.

| ASIN | B00IGITN3I |
| Assembly Required | Yes |
| Base Material | Plastic |
| Brand | Rubbermaid |
| Colour | Sandstone |
| Door Style | Single Hinged Door |
| Frame Material | Plastic |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 00071691472629 |
| Item Dimensions LxWxH | 2.22 x 1.17 x 0.45 Meters |
| Item Weight | 0.28 g |
| Item model number | 1862705 |
| Manufacturer | Rubbermaid |
| Material | Plastic |
| Product Dimensions | 221.62 x 116.84 x 45.24 cm; 0.28 g |
| Style | 7x3.5 Shed |
| Top Material Type | Plastic |
| UPC | 071691472629 |
| Water Resistance Level | Water Resistant |
R**F
[One day post-assembly...] Overall, this shed was everything it was advertised to be; reasonably sturdy, appears weather-resistant, and was actually quite easy to assemble. My wife and I assembled it in about 3-1/2 hours, taking our time. The installation was against the side wall of the house. It is important to note that the dimensions given in the description are general; the shed pad is 88.09 inches x 45.06 inches, so the 4'x8' paver pad I put down barely was sufficient; additionally, the roof strut protrudes even further so make sure you have 48 inches of depth at the top. It will NOT fit flush against a wall. I neglected to ensure I had adequate door swing before I purchased (which my wife immediately pointed out!), so make sure you have enough clearance for the doors to swing. Make sure your pad is flat and level -- otherwise it will not go together very easily. We used LOTS of dishwasher soap to ensure things went together easily, with the roof being the only problem child and need to be coaxed by a rubber mallet. Inside, there are a couple of roof joints that might need a touch of sealant to keep wasps out at the back and front corners. Folks have complained about the lack of shelf hangers; when you look at the pegboard hangers, a hanger can be fashioned from wood that will work to put up a shelf, although you can just put in a plastic shelf unit instead and still have plenty of floor space. Inside I had 81" wide by 38-3/4" deep, 72 inches to the top of the walls. I have another Rubbermaid shed that has lasted 15 years, so I expect some good use out of this one. Really well designed, the doors snap closed, ground level, lockable, and enough space for all of the yard stuff plus some other junk. Highly recommend it for the Florida weather.
G**Y
I bought this item a few months ago and just got around to putting it together. After laying out the pieces and reading the printed instructions, I searched for a video showing the assembly process. No joy! So I read a few reviews, learned of some potential problems, re-read the instructions, donned my work gloves, and picked up my rubber mallet. Before you start, be aware that you really need to do this on a hard surface. If your shed's ultimate location is on your lawn or other soft ground, DO NOT ASSEMBLE IT THERE. Yes, moving it once it's put together is a chore, but trust me on this, it's necessary. Also, you'll need plenty of room to make assembly easier. Finally, I put this together by myself, but for a lot of buyers it should be a two person job. I ran into the first problem right away. The instructions say to snap the left and right side/back pieces together, and it sounds easy. Don't try to do this with the pieces upright. Lay them flat and bend each side part upright until it snaps in position. Butt the two pieces together so the four connections line up. Forget the mallet. Step onto the pieces and then stomp on each of the connections until you hear each one snap into place. Once that's done, lift it back upright. The next step is to slide the floor piece into place at the bottom of the sides. If you look, you'll see two places on each side where the floor can be set into grooves on the sides. Line those up and then, standing in front of the partial shed, grab the front of each side and pull them so the grooves and tabs are in position to go together. Kick the front edge of the floor piece until the tabs are in the grooves. You won't get them to snap into place yet. Tilt the whole thing toward its front so that the back is topmost. Grab your mallet and bang on the four places where the floor meets the back until you hear and see them snap together. Once that's done, stand it back upright. Time for the doors. Both are added the same way and it doesn't matter which you do first right now but I'll write this up starting with the left one. There's a pivot pin at the top of the door that fits easily into a hole in the side piece. There's another pivot pin at the bottom that's not so easy. With the top pin in place, push the door into the more-or-less closed position while lifting up on the right edge so the bottom door pin rides up onto the floor. Push the door so the bottom pin is heading toward its floor hole and it will jam itself into position so you can let go and bend down to see where the pin is relative to the hole. Bang on the door with your mallet while watching your progress and you should be able to get the bottom pin in correctly. It isn't difficult but you do need to watch what you're doing. Then do the same thing for the other door. The last piece is the top, and it will be easier with two people. Hold the top up over the rest of the shed so the metal prop-up rod dangles over the slot in the top front of the right side piece. You need to rotate the top counter clockwise while holding it flat so that the bend at the bottom of the prop can go into the slot. Once it's in, rotate the top back into alignment, then lower it to line up the hinge points at the back. Bang on them with the mallet until they snap into place. That's it, you're finished. Not counting the unproductive time I spent trying things that ended up not working, the whole assembly took me maybe 20 minutes, and would have taken less time if I'd had a helper. I like the shed. It sure feels sturdy now that it's assembled, and it appears to be reasonably weather resistant for the way it's built. My only real gripe is poor, or at best inadequate, instructions. Rubbermaid would be doing themselves and their customers a favor by putting together some simple YouTube assembly videos for this product line. I'd volunteer but I'm old, fat, and homely.
D**E
It was easy to put together ... it just snaps in place! I did it myself but having a second pair of hands is helpful. Sturdy unit which holds all our recycle needs with room to spare.
L**9
As others have attested, you need a level and firm base. I purchased (4) 2' x 2', and 2 1' x 1' flat bricks at Home Depot and then laid them on (6) bags of pea gravel that I smoothly leveled using a steel garden rake AFTER first leveling the ground with a flat-headed shovel to minimize (not entirely eliminate) the grade next to the side of our house. I then layed out the bricks to allow about two inches all the way around the pad. Finally, I used (2) more bags of pea gravel (I purchased a total of 8 bags) to fill in the roughly 1"-2" gaps between the bricks just to keep yard mice or bugs from taking up home between the cracks under the shed. It is dark/late in the evening as I write this, but otherwise I would have taken a photo. It is a near-perfect and cheaper alternative to having a cement pad poured which I learned from doing this with a smaller shed 10 years ago and has remained perfectly stable. But, you NEED to use a long, straight board and a level to make sure that you laid the bricks level from each corner. Because, I tried to eye ball it, when I assembled the shed one of the doors didn't easily shut - so, I had to slide (quite easy by myself) the assembled shed back onto the grass and properly level the large paver bricks. Problem solved. I also bought/used (1) tube of 100% clear silicone caulk to seal the small gaps (especially in the 4 corners) so that bugs/worms don't get any ideas about entering through the small gaps. If you use a caulk gun you only need 1 tube, but if you buy the regular silicone caulk tubes you'll need 2 tubes. Also, the last page of the instructions reference the option of adding an attic storage loft. Do it. I measured the ceiling area and bought the cheapest 1/2" board available (pressed from recycled wood chips) and sawed it to slide/fit on the ceiling rail designed for it. Leave enough opening to slide stuff in and out, but we store all of our lawn chair bags and other stuff up there. You're cheating yourself for that additional storage space if you don't use it. (I screwed the board through the plastic shelf with a single screw just to keep it from sliding around while storing stuff. Finally, the kit includes the hardware to buy/add shelves. I might add a short shelf next Summer. Good luck with your own new Rubbermaid shed project!
D**I
Is great nice and sturdy, lot of room. Well built.
Trustpilot
3 days ago
2 weeks ago