Silicone Heater Pad Heater Bed Size 510x510mm for CR-10S5 CR10S-5 3D Printer with Digital Temperature Controller Fast Heating Up to 100°C Within 10 Minutes（110V Only）

After the stock heated bed of my CR10-S5 taking an hour and a half (yes, you read that right!) to reach 80c to do a PETG print, I knew I had to do something about it. Keenovo always came up as the best alternative, but way too pricey, especially with controller. It always took a while to get to 60c for PLA, and you only heat 310x310mm of the 500x500mm bed...horrible for a $1,000 printer! This is a great alternative at a great price! It sounds like on the description you can still use the OEM heated bed, but there's no real way with the wiring as an obstruction to adhesion. So I completely omitted the OEM heater and thermister, and set the printer up as a non heated bed in my slicer and just use this stand alone. Wire management can be difficult with such heavy gauge wire, but doable, same with mounting the controller. I do wish there was an on/off switch close to the controller, but I'll just use a wireless outlet plug. Now my CR10-S5 heats the bed to 60c in about the same time as to heat the nozzle to 200c!, AND it heats the entire bed! If you have a CR10-S5, you really need this mod, along with a BMG type extruder, V6 style hotend, and Capricorn tubing for a fast, reliable, enjoyable printing experience. Now if someone would just make an Ultrabase type bed in 500x500mm....

I had heard horror stories from others about the factory installed bed taking for ever to heat and prints failing. I did not try the factory installed bed at all I just installed this new bed heater. I installed it in 30 minutes, having a drill and Allen adapters for disassembly would have cut the time considerably. The heater has to be turned off separately from the creality printer. I just have it on a power strip and turn the strip itself off.Pros- No failed prints ( dobstfy print bed helps)Plug and play once installedFairly easy installCons - I wish there was a wiring diagram to install the factory thermistor into the new large bed heatercontrol unit. I don't like having the wiring for the factory plug abandoned. To solve this problem IPut the factory thermistor in the corner of the bed to monitor temperature. It helps to get anaverage temperature and ensure the entire bed is heated properly. the 2 power cables are tuckedaway with wire nuts on them for now.I wish there was an on off switch for the unit, a relay to power the unit on from the main board.even still if you pause the print with the factory bed you loose heat and risk print failures. at leastthis way the bed stays warm if you run out of filament.I wish the wiring was black.The temperature is a bit touchy and can vary between center and the edges by 3-4 degrees CAll in all for $129 bucks it gives you the full capabilities of this printer and function for me out weighs every con at the end of the day I just want the thing to produce a good print with minimal head ache. This bed does that so 4 stars it is.

In the end, was easier to apply and use than I thought, once you get into it and get into the groove of things.Only caveat is to MAKE SURE the wires connecting to the control unit are tightly and neatly screwed in. Any stray wires can lead to current leaking and blown fuses within the control unit. You do not want that happening. After having had 1 control unit blow up due to what I had suspected was voltage issues, and having the 'appropriate' replacement sent for my region, I've realized that the issue is less to do with the control unit voltage, and more with any possible exposed wires. Handle the control unit with care, since any strong tugs could dislodge the cables.Open the package, peel back the adhesive sticker, and apply the orange silicone pad to the back of the build plate for the CR10S5 as pictured. Simple and straightforward.Once applied, hook up directly to the mains and bypass the CR10S5's control unit directly with regards to the heating by unplugging the build plate plug entirely. Screw back in the metal bars/heatsink, and/or apply foil to help with heat insulation to retain heat/save energy usage as you will.With your slicer, (I use Simplify3D) go to the temperature settings and set your build plate's temperature to 0 (As shown in the picture) or remove the heated plate as a heating item as part of the procedure entirely - this should send the signal to the printer's control unit to not heat build plate up and to print on a cold plate that is unplugged, and the plate itself is heated manually by yourself by turning it on the power for the pad.As for performance: WOW. I was skeptical of how fast the build plate would heat up. The default heating set up with the CR10S5 usually took 15 minutes to heat up to 60 degrees Celsius. I wasn't expecting Fundo's to take less than 30 seconds. It is insane. And impressive. For the price. It is a solid upgrade.