Fluval U3 Underwater Aquarium Filter 150L (40 US Gal)

New item Motor didn't work. Failed to understand how it can be sent to sale, without quality check? Very disappointed with the fluval brand.

I just unpacked, assembled and inserted in the tank. The whole filter is unbearably noisy. Chippy or idling sound.. no idea but it is quite annoying. By trusting the brand I want to try another. It feels this particular filter has a failure

Horrible experience stopped working within the first 5 minutes of activating it under water, when I pulled it out the motor itself had become boiling hot!

This is a long term review as this exact filter was bought April 2018 and used yearly/monthly/weekly/daily/hourly/minute by minute ever since ! I've been a Fluval customer for decades, I've had a number of their filters with dozens upon dozens of tanks over the years and what keeps on me being loyal? 1. Quality 2. Dependable 3. Does it's job day in day out I've been in the hobby for decades and have kept salt/fresh bare bottom/planted and everything in between. I've given speeches, helped 100's of people in this hobby and in all that time and experience you can easily weed out poor manufacturers and you quickly gravitate to manufacturers who provide that dependability that is DEMANDED with the aquarium hobby. In all my years I've never had any Fluval filter quit working for me. Personally I'm in the underwater/submerged phase of tank keeping I guess you can say. I've converted all my main tanks with the Fluval U series and three tanks have this same Fluval U3 for a few different reasons, most importantly is for it's silent operation. I have a couple tanks in bedrooms and the old HOB Hang On Back type filters tend to let the water drop too far as to create that waterfall noise. Some may like that noise but I call it noise for a reason. With the underwater series such as this U3 there is zero and I mean ZERO noise from the filter. No fish stories here so I included the three U3 series filters as proof. For the filter itself, you can adjust the outflow in various regards, the filter unit itself clips into a holder which is suction cupped to the aquarium glass wall and opening the top door to change filter material is quick and painless. If the filter does not sit well in the filter cage something is just blocking it a tad, most likely it is the power cord so just rerun the cord past the clips on the back of the filter and your good to go again. TIP ► When doing any tank filter maintenance I strongly suggest to turn it off first. When I do filter maintenance I completely remove the entire filter into a bucket and then open it to change out filter pads. I do this because if you change filter pads in the tank and plug the filter back in, debris will shoot out of the filter like a hurricane. Change out filter pads in a bucket, rinse the filter itself in some water and you've minimized the debris hurricane. TIP ► There are 5 basic areas within the filter. 1. The ceramic media. Never clean this part...leave it nice and dirty. Caked in debris isn't needed but if there is just remove that debris, don't try to 'wash' the ceramic rings. They also don't need to be replaced. If they are turning into powder, sure but in all my years I've never had to replace ANY ceramic media ! 2. On either side of the filter there is a course then fine area. The course is the sponge and material is first trapped into this. When you do your REGULAR maintenance squeeze this out in water only. You don't need to replace this as the sponge will last for many, many, many years. 3. The final stage is a bad that 'polishes' the water and this includes activated carbon within that filter pad. In my tanks I don't run activated carbon and I caution against using that in most cases actually, so when my filter pad gets dirty I only squeeze this filter pad out in water and I don't replace it. The filter material's integrity against the plastic filter pad cage will last for years and years. People replace their filter material much too frequently. Sorry aquarium filter manufacturers... But they all tend to advocate replacing the filter material wayyyyy to frequently. Replacing filter materials is a huge profit maker for manufacturers. TIP ► In doing filter maintenance when a filter sponge or pad needs to be rinsed some people state to not use tap water as it contains chlorine and possible chloramine so those people say you should only rinse out filter material in cycled tank water. For my own practice I use tap water and I'm never concerned with the tap water chlorine or chloramine. TIP ► In doing filter maintenance only do ONE SIDE at a time. Since the beneficial nitrifying bacteria is held in the filter material if someone were to 'clean' the entire filter - all filter material, the tank can be put into a mini-cycle. Not really a good thing. Only clean 50% of the filter per time, doing this will give a more chemically stable aquarium. TIP ► A dirty filter is a wonderful filter. While you don't need to live with 50% water flow rate from the original brand new condition, people hurt their tanks by cleaning filters too frequently. The nitrifying bacteria is held in the filter material so cleaning the filter too often will easily cause a mini-cycle which will always put stress on livestock. Crystal clear water = dirty filter. Clean filter = zero cycle. Might sound strange but it's the truth. TIP ► If you hear the word ' cycle ' with this hobby that is in reference to a naturally and beneficial occurring chemical process where ammonia is converted to nitrite and then over to nitrate. A brand new tank will take aprox 30 days naturally for this to happen. At that rough 30 day mark PPM readings will be 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite and a reading of nitrate. In terms of fish you need really nothing for nitrate so your reading can be low however if you have live aquarium plants a reading of nitrate is mandatory. TIP ► In all my impeller filters, right out of the box I use a small dab of 100% pure petroleum jelly and rub it all around the magnetic part of the impeller. This will help with lubrication and a small tweak we can do to even further make the tank more quiet. Not gobs are used just a thin coat. I've done this for a very long time and there have been ZERO negative effects in any of my tanks. If this is not done, that beautiful slime coating found in mature aquariums will form within a couple weeks and naturally coat the impeller. I still just use the petroleum jelly anyways. TIP ► Please be very careful about filter placement especially if someone has fine substrate material especially such as sand. This can easily get sucked into the filter and once it hits the impeller it could easily give a louder grinding sound. When people come to me about grinding filter noise this is the first thing I ask them to check. Make sure the impeller cage is 100% clean of any debris. I typically say no closer than 4" so the substrate bottom when people have those fine grain substrates. Standard type gravel size which I only use, I can let the filter stand right on the substrate itself. TIP ► If by chance you have any sort of filter that the impeller appears to be caked with material and cannot be washed off just use a fine piece of sandpaper. Something like a 200 grit is what I have used in the past to make sure there is nothing 'stuck' on the magnet that can cause unwanted noise. This goes to any brand of magnetic impeller filter. You don't need to grind the magnet away just make the surface clean once again. TIP ► My first tip above talked about a dirty filter being wonderful and people clean it too frequently. This is 100% the case...however if your filter requires cleaning more than every 2-3 weeks then it is not the filter but the tank itself has a maintenance issue. If could very well be a buildup of mulm/detritus from lack of regular tank maintenance. Your filter will collect floating debris however if there is too much floating debris then any filter no matter brand or size will clog. That is our issue not a filters issue of not functioning properly. An aquarium filter's purpose is to COLLECT floating material not to magically make floating material 100% disappear. It is OUR regular maintenance job to remove that collected material. TIP ► A simple way to see if a filter is working properly, HOB, underwater or whatever is if water is being moved by the output. If water is being moved, the filter itself works. If the water is only moving 50% from original flow rates that means it is a very dirty filter that needs our cleaning maintenance...the filter did it's job just fine as it collected the floating material....the 50% flow rate is our issue with tank maintenance. There is much more I can write but I'll cut it off there. Good luck with the hobby, keeping aquariums is a wonderful thing. This brand is legend...please don't let someone else tell you otherwise. ===================== Overall: 10/5 Yes a 10 out of 5. Fluval filters are amazing. Suction power: 5/5 Easy to clean: 5/5 Noise level: 5/5 ===================== Helpful, is how I hope you find my review

Efficace.. silencieuse. Elle fait son travail.. aquarium de 150 litres. J'en ai acheté plusieurs, aucuna a été aussi efficace et silencieuse.. si un jour elle lache je reprends la même

Filtret är tyst, och har bra filtrering och att det även finns ett fack för biomedia är ett +. Och enkelt att rengöra med sin endelnig av 3 fack man drar upp ett fack i taget, så biomedia facket i mitten kan man låta sitta kvar så bakterierna behålls om det inte är igenkleggat.Att kunna välja utblås överst, spraybar mitten utblås botten är ett plus med.

Très bonne pompe en 6 h eau cristalline 👍👍

Preso in sostituzione di un altro filtro interno si è dimostrato subito superiore per quanto riguarda la filtrazione, offre la possibilità di variare in 3 posizioni l'uscita dell'acqua filtrata. Facile manutenzione