Adjustable Magnetic Gauge Tool, Camber Castor Strut Wheel Alignment Tool for Car/Truck Camber/Castor Strut

My wife's 2006 Honda Odyssey needs camber adjustment and I found this tool on Amazon and for the price I thought I should try it. This helped adjust the camber. Now I don't have to rush to the mechanic for the proper adjustment since the van is seldom used. This is a useful DIY tool but you should have your car professionally aligned.UPDATE: When using this tool make sure that the magnet is not retained on the rotor. Apparently the last time I used this on my truck there was a grinding noise coming from the front when I drove my truck. I thought something was really wrong and I had to stop and investigate. It was the magnet stuck on the rotor and grinding on the caliper. So make sure that you double check that the magnet is not left on the rotor. It was a scary and funny experience at the same time.

Yes. It's more than the average person needs; but, if you often seem to be hauling heavy stuff around in your car, expect rear wheel camber to go out of wack. It can cost you 100s of dollars in excess wear/tear on your tires--to leave it that way, even to the point of making your vehicle UNSAFE when the camber goes out (protenates either inward or outward causes excessive edge of tire wear/prematurely destroys your tires 10s of 1000s of miles too soon.) Many quick oil / tire shops won't even do the work to align real wheel camber, but if you work on your own car, get this for your toolbox and do it yourself.Tool was easy to use. Process is simple. Tool Price: reasonable. Already paid for itself on my 3 cars 10 times over. 5 Stars. Buy it.

Solid made. Didn't have any of the magnet issues.Wish it had some kind of directions on set up/use.Cannot complain for the solid build and price point. Great tool

This tool is not used to do an alignment. This tool is used to set camber back to the same place it was after you remove or replace a strut. Some struts are adjustable and have an oblong hole in them. This is used to make a camber adjustment by moving the strut in or out slightly and tightening the bolts back up. Camber is how much the top of the tire tilts in or out and is measured in degrees. When camber is changed it also changes toe. Toe is how much the tires point in or out as viewed from above. If toe is out just a little bit it can wear the inside or outside edge of your tires relatively quickly. I use this tool when I replace struts. If you don't, it is a pain in the ass to adjust camber with the tire on and the alignment machine installed on the rim. The two large strut alignment bolts are next to impossible to reach and adjust to the proper position because the tire is in the way..For best results use these directions:.1. With the vehicle safely supported remove the wheel.2. Slightly snug at least two lug nuts on the brake rotor so it does not tilt.(You may have to buy 2 if they have a chrome cap on them preventing them from being tightened down on the rotor.)3. Install the tool on a flat portion of the brake rotor and level the small level first.4. Turn the knob on the bottom to zero the large level.5. Remove the tool in a way not to touch the tilting level or adjustment screw.Put it in a safe place where it won't get knocked out of alignment.6. Mark a wheel stud and the brake rotor in a way you can install in them "both" in the same position.Remember the position of the marked wheel stud (ex. the 12o'clock position)7. Perform steering or suspension work.8. Rotate the hub so the wheel stud is in the same position as when the tool was leveled.9. Install the brake rotor over the "marked" wheel hub in the same exact position it came offThis assumes the hub and brake rotor are the 2 piece kind (like most), not the 1 piece design10. Install the tool in the "same" location and snug at least two lug nuts so the brake rotor doesn't tilt.11. Move the tool in a way to level the small level (Do not touch the adjustment screw)12. Move the strut in or out and tighten the adjustment bolts when the large level bubble is at zero again.13. Recheck after tightening adjustment bolts that it is still at exactly zero.14. Remove the tool and install the wheel.15. Tighten the lug nuts to manufactures specified torque.16. Make sure all parts removed were properly reinstalled.17. Pump up the brake pedal if you had to compress the brake caliper piston to remove it..This tool is better than the "Tool Aid" brand one I previously had. It has a second level (side to side) which allows you to place it back on more accurately. This also has an adjustment screw rather than physically having to move the body to level it. I used epoxy to hold my magnet in. Save the cardboard box with Styrofoam it comes in to protect it.

I'll start off by saying I bought this camber tool despite some of the concerns I read in the reviews. I figured I would give it a fair shake anyways.After actually using it, I decided to return it.It's not versatile or lifesaving enough for me to justify keeping it, and it's definitely not the only option. I'll be getting a digital angle gauge next.I needed to adjust my rear camber and this popped up in the "for you" suggestions.Again, I tried to give a fair shake. So, here we are.This is me reading reviews, pre purchase.1. "The thing leaks fluid if it's left outside during a cold winter or hot summer." That figures. It sucks, but it figures. You get what you pay for. This tool just likes Air Conditioning, I said.2. "Highly inaccurate." It's a level. If you start zeroed out to begin with, you'll get accurate results at the end. Operator error, I said.3. "Mine arrived missing the magnet in the bottom." There's literally nothing I can say to this. *looks at manufacturer for answers*4. "It doesn't work well in direct sunlight. The fluid expands and the bubble disappears"*Looks at manufacturer again*So after reading all that, i bought it anyways. And it worked, albeit with frustrations.I stuck a magnetic 6' level on my garage door beam. The beams exactly 90 degrees so I knew I had an accurate start when I dialed in the tool.When I stuck the tool to the level and got it zeroed out, I noticed the adjustment knob was extremely free and there's no way to lock your settings. I'm glad I left the level stuck to the beam for an accurate 90 degrees, because I used it quite a few times.If you bump that adjustment screw AT ALL while adjusting your camber arms, you're starting over.Go zero your tool out. AGAIN.As far as using the tool, it's super easy.Stick it on the flat surface of a brake rotor or drum after you zeroed out to 90 degrees, adjust your camber arms to your settings, and that's it. You're done.Unless you bumped the adjustment screw accidentally.The adjustment knob REALLY needs a lock of some sort.