Mini Heater for 3D Printer, Resin 3D Printer Temperature Controller 100W Heating Thermostat Temp Control for LCD DLP 3D Printers

Bought this heater to use on my Anycubic Mono 4 Ultra in the basement. I use several thick resins with high-temperature resistance and I really need to be in the 30-35C range to get reliable prints. This little unit is smaller than the Anycubic heater I have in another (larger) printer. I couldn’t fit the Anycubic heater in the Mono 4 Ultra printer, but this one fits with room to spare. Seems to be doing a good job keeping the temperature in range. Easy to set and use. I leave it running about all the time. Been going strong about 4 months now. I am buying an extra to keep for the day when a heater dies unexpectedly. Heaters in the cabinet work well, and this model is my current favorite.

If you print with resin during colder months, the Youyoute Mini Heater is a game-changer. This heater is fantastic—super easy to use and practical for keeping your printer warm. Since I started using it, I’ve noticed a significant improvement in my resin prints, with far fewer defects. I only had to make a small modification inside the lid of my Phrozen printer to route the cable, but it was totally worth it. The heater is compact yet highly effective, and it’s become an essential part of my resin printing workflow. This is definitely a must-have for anyone dealing with low temperatures while printing in resin!

Works great to keep my elegoo saturn 1 and mars 2P enclosure at 35c, tested it works at an ambient room temperature of at least 10c, haven't tested any lower than that. The original box I received didn't have the proper power adapter cable for the power supply provided. Customer support was very responsive and sent me an entire replacement unit very quickly. If I could make one suggestion, it would be to put an inline on/off switch on the power cable, so I can turn off the heater before I open the enclosure. there is also no on off button on the unit that I can tell. I end up just unplugging the heater before I take the cover off the printer.

Look for "Photonsters PTC Heater Unit" on Thingiverse. This is a similar concept, except that it's professionally manufactured, looks slick, and Just Works™ out-of-the-box. I've taken mine apart, and I was impressed with the build quality. It's not perfect, but for the price, it's a good deal. I'll walk through some impressions. First, for context, if you were to order all of the parts you need to make a heater like this via Amazon, you'd be spending about $70. Obviously, you can order the parts elsewhere, but you might be waiting for a while. This unit shipped domestically and was in my hands within a week. At the time of writing, this unit is $69.99. For that price, this is a great deal. However, I suspect that the seller might raise the price if this unit gets the attention it deserves. This unit is also branded "GMAKER-FPS1" on the box. If you search the 'net, you can find this heater under that branding on AliExpress, where at the time of writing, it is priced higher than on Amazon. You might be able to gather more info there. In the box, you'll find the heater, two adapters, and two spare filters. First, there's the AC/DC adapter that connects the heater to the wall (DC-832-120500). At the wall, mine terminated in a US-style, two-pronged type A plug. This could have been a concern because the AliExpress listing specified several plug standards as options, but I had no issues here. On the DC side, it had a 5.5x2.5mm male barrel plug. The output of the adapter is 12.0V at 5.0A. Secondly, there's another short, weird adapter included in the box that has a female 5.5x2.5mm inline jack on one end, and TX30U-F on the other. (Not an XT30U.) They sort of look like PCIe connectors, but they are not. It connects into an TX30U-M mounted in the device. This my first issue with this product: it uses an uncommon, proprietary connector type. Good luck finding a replacement, or making a custom cord. Thankfully, I think should be easy to mod, which I'll describe shortly. I can see why they used this connector though: if the info I found is accurate (questionable), despite its small size, this connector is rated for 500V at 20A! [Edit: An acquaintance suggested that they designed this adapter cable for compatibility with Anycubic printers: the small size of the connector allows it to slide through a hole that exists in the printer body for this purpose. I don’t own an Anycubic printer, so I cannot confirm this, but if so, it’s a smart piece of design. Additionally, I’ve been able to find some TX30U connectors on Amazon mislabeled as XT30U, so keep an eye out and fingers crossed, and you might be able to source some without having to order in bulk.] Opening up the device is easy. It's secured with four screws. Everything inside is thoughtfully laid out. The only glue in the device is being used to secure the TX30U-M to the chassis. Everything else is secured by standoffs designed into the chassis. Inside, there's a PCB, a blower-style fan, and a 12V 50W heating element. All of the wires are substantial, around 20 AWG or so, with the exception of the wires that lead to the fan. Aside from those, it looks like the wires that have labels are rated to 125°C. Initially, I was concerned because I saw a white wire pressed against the heating element. After removing the heating element, I realized that this wire led to the "overheat protector" mentioned in the item description. This component rests against the heating element and is meant to turn off the circuit if the heating element overheats. This brings me to my second issue with this product: according to the description, it's supposed to have an overheat protector that's tuned to 80°C, but the one in my unit was tuned to 100°C. (Model BK05-BB50.) Not cool, random Chinese company! I don't think it'll cause an issue in practice, but this kind of misleading information is not good. [Edit: Added photo of the 100°C overheat protector.] (To be fair, I've looked at the plans for DIY'ing something like this, and they don't include a discrete overheat protection unit at all, so unless the heater or controller you get has one integrated, you might be safer with this unit anyway, despite the misleading listing.) The PCB is dual-sided, which isn't always the case with cheaper devices. There's a thermistor sticking out of the board that presses against the filter to measure current temperature at the air intake. All of the wires are connected to the board via connectors: none of them are soldered directly to the board, which to me is another signal of quality. The connectors for wires to the power intake and heating element are fairly heavy duty. That's about all I have regarding impressions of the internals. Again, everything seems well thought-through, and aside from the wire that's adjacent to the heating element, everything feels like it has room to breathe, which should help prevent overheating, despite the small size of this unit. This heater fits into my Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K to the left of the Z-axis. The fit is tight, but it doesn't interfere with the lid or the Z limit arm. I'm planning to mod my printer to add a 5.5x2.5mm panel mount jack into the enclosure, so that I don't have to cut a hole through the lid. For now, I've been using an FDM-printed lid spacer that has a cutout for wires. Lastly, I want to return to the topic of the unusual TX30U connectors. I think there is enough room between the PCB and the chassis of the unit to mount a 5.5x2.5mm barrel jack on the side of the unit, replacing the TX30U-M that's there now. This should eliminate the need for the TX30U-M connector. I don't think there's a need to support (allegedly) 500V at 20A, so the barrel jack should do fine. I suspect that the decision to use a TX30U-M was done to ease manufacturing. The jack will have to be pinched between the two halves of the chassis. I'll update this review with photos if I end up doing this mod. In summary: great unit for the current price. Seems well-built. Been working fine for a week. Inaccurate listing: overheat protection is at 100°C, not 80°C as advertised. Unusual, proprietary connector. Will update if it breaks on me, burns my house down, or if I do one of these mods I mentioned.

Its fairly quiet and the installation was pretty straightforward. I have an Elegoo Mars 1 and the only thing I had to do was notch out the corner of the lid just big enough for the connector. It kept my printer warm when it was hitting single digits in Fahrenheit in the garage. I was able to print successfully in the winter all thanks to this.

Started to see a lot of support failures as the temperatures dropped. Added to my Anycubic PhotoMono2 and used to warm resin, vat, and build plate. Instantly restored print success to summer temperature performance. Holds very stable temperature once set. Had to make a small cut-out for the cable 8n my cover, but install and startup were very easy after that.

First off this is a well thought out design: small, compact, 2-piece power cord to aid in passage into an enclosure. It remembers the setting when powered-off, and will run continuously (unlike Creality's heater, which has a time limit). It also has 2 thermal protections: a thermostat to regulate the heat, and a PTC thermal switch on the heater element. So why the 1-star? It's advertised as 100 watts. The circuit board even has '100W' silkscreened on the heater output - but the heating element, when powered directly, only draws 1 amp, which is 12 watts. And the circuit board supplies around half that via PWM, so we're down to around 6-8 watts. And it shows: this thing would have a hard time heating up a shoebox. Be Aware: As you can see in the photo, the circuit board has been dramatically changed from the photos posted by previous 5 & 4 star reviews. Somewhere, something got cheapened up. You've been warned!

EDIT: I realized after a while that the product specifies it is for heating a dpace significantly smaller than the enclosure I was using it in. I put the heater directly under the hood of my 3D printer and it works very well now. Worked for a day or so but now struggles to approach 25c when set to 30c, even when the outside temperature is 18c.