Question 1

What would be the swl (safe working load) for this loop?

Accepted Answer

Per tag on the loop 500 lbs . MBS 4500 lbs

Question 2

Why use this over an eye to eye splice? Can you use a tending pulley with these? Prusiks are hard to unlock under load without one.

Accepted Answer

If your prussik is under load then you need to unload it some how.  Yes you can use a prussik minding pulley with one.  I chose these as they are easier for people to remember what they are for and you don't have a knot in the way when you wrap the prussik.  We're primarily using them as a brake in the 3:1 system and to attach the mid-line pulley to the rope.  After setting up the 3:1, or "Z" rig, we pull the mid -line pulley which is behind the brake prussik and the minding pulley.  At the end of the haul,  when the two pulleys meet, we set the brake prussik, and slide the hauling prussik and pulley down to capture another stretch of line for hauling.  When that prussik is set,  a pull on the line relaxes tension to the set brake prussik.  The belayer either loosen the prussik or the prussik minding pulley slides it down the rope. If your ropes are icy, muddy, or wet prussiks may not be ideal and the problems must be solved another way, such as a second belay line, and anchoring the hauling pulley with knots to the section or rope to be hauled.  Good luck.  JH

Question 3

Can you tie this in a schwabisch knot and stuff like that or does it only do prusik knot?

Accepted Answer

You'll want a cord with a loop on each end or you'll want to tie your own loops.  This works only for Prussiks.  There is a good U tube video on the schwabisch knot.

Question 4

Does a typical screwgate climbing carabiner go into the pre-sewn loop? Sorry, noob climber here.

Accepted Answer

Unless you're using it in the basket configuration,  it's not strong enough. Needs at least 23 KN rating end to end to be considered strong enough

ASIN	B01DQIMXCK
Best Sellers Rank	#60,407 in Sporting Goods ( See Top 100 in Sporting Goods ) #73 in Climbing Ropes
Brand Name	GM CLIMBING
Color	Black-18 Inch
Customer Reviews	4.6 4.6 out of 5 stars (1,106)
Item Diameter	8 Millimeters
Item Length	18 Inches
Item Thickness	0.31 Inches
Line Weight	24 kg
Manufacturer	GM CLIMBING
Manufacturer Part Number	GM8101
Material Type	Polyester
Maximum Tension Load	5400 Pounds
Model Number	GM8101
Number of Items	1
Number of Packs	1
Product Style	Compact
Recommended Uses For Product	Camping, Hiking, Hunting
Tensile Strength	5400 Pounds
UPC	604697559393
Unit Count	1 Count

GM CLIMBING 8mm (5/16") Prusik Loop Pre-Sewn 18 inches/0.46 meters

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