10mm Ball Stud Mounting Brackets for Gas Struts, 4 Pcs & 16 Screws | For Universal Lift Supports, Holds Up to 200 lb, Solid Durable Build, Full Hardware, Multi DIY Applications

I've used three sets of these. Whether you need a flat set, or 90 degrees, they all work great with any normal gas cylinders.

Worked great for the rear door of my truck's topper that I made for a replacement that was damaged. Was able to rivet them in place and they worked as they should. Appears to be well made and strong.

Built heavy duty . Worked well with the new shock

Decent, but not powerfully strong, they both bent a bit once the struts were put on because of the weight of the lid. Struts were rated for higher weight than I used them on.

Easy to mount. Fits well with struts.

Worked perfect on an older LEER topper.

These brackets are sturdy, but NOT stainless steel as advertised. They are obviously carbon steel with zinc plating, and they are magnetic. Also, the rivet on the back of the ball stud protrudes ~2 mm (5/64)" beyond the surface of the back side of the bracket, which means they will not mount flush without a countersink hole for the rivet head. That said, a countersink hole made with a forstner bit of the right diameter and depth could be useful to precisely locate the ball stud before pre-drilling the screw holes using the bracket as a template; the rivet is not deep enough to offer much lateral strength in its countersink hole, but it would be useful as a locator. Related, the rivet has a solid head compared to the hollow type on some other similar brackets, and this ball stud rivet looks to be sturdy (but looks do not necessarily relate to strength). Lastly, like so many others point out, the screws that come with these brackets are a waste of time, totally inadequate for such a bracket for all but the lightest loads, and also zinc plated steel and not stainless steel. They are the metric equivalent of #7 x 5/8" pan head sheet metals screws (measured 3.8 x 16 mm), far too small for the loads such a bracket will encounter, especially if not mounted flat with the countersink hole mentioned above. Considering the bracket thickness (~3mm), these screws would only penetrate ~0.5" (~13mm). #10 x 1"+ (as long as the backing material will enable), preferably screws with a shoulder so solid screw shaft versus threads bear against the bracket, is what is required for the typical lateral loads on such gas string ball studs. The three bracket holes measure 0.2" (5.08mm), which is about half way between #10 and #12 screw thread diameter, so call the holes suitable for #10 screws, if not 5mm metric size. Per AWC-NDS Table 11M, the maximum lateral strength of wood screws holding a metal bracket to wood is reduced if the wood penetration is less than 10 times the thread diameter, then the derating factor is the number of actual diameters of wood penetration divided by 10 down to 6 diameters (60%), then complex formulas are necessary, but the same ratio is indicative of the best of might be. The screws provided (3.8mm x 16mm) through a 3mm thick bracket will penetrate the wood by 13 mm, thus the penetration is 13 divided by 3.8 = 3.4, which is far below the point where formulas would be required, and then if the linear derating applied as a rough indicator, which is the best it might be, then the screws will have lateral strength 34% of the maximum. E.g., per Table 11M, for this bracket thickness (3 mm, ~11 gauge), and screw diameter (3.8mm, ~#7), in Hemlock-Fir Wood (typical), one screw would have a maximum lateral strength of 86 lbs. Then applying the derating factor of 34%, 29 lbs. Three such screws would provide a lateral strength of 88 lbs. Reality would be less, for two reasons: 1) because the ratio derating method does not work below 6D penetration, and alcos because these screws are so much smaller than the holes, likely the bracket would not bear evenly on all three screws and one of them would bear more than it's share of load. And then once the screw that is overloaded deforms the wood until the other screws engage, it gets even weaker. So the screws provided are only good enough for a 29 lbs lateral force applied by the gas spring. Then considering the spring K factor, which is how much higher the nominal spring force when fully compressed, typically 1.35, this means any spring with a nominal force over 21 lbs (29 lbs when compressed) will overstress these tiny screws in Hemlock-Fir wood.

I'm glad the brackets were NOT included with the struts I purchased because I wanted something heavy duty and these fit the bill perfectly. I did use my own screws rather than those that came with the flanges, but that was more or an aesthetic decision than a question of quality. But, the lid I was constructing did weigh 50 pounds so a somewhat beefier screw seemed warranted.

Excellent mount

I purchased a tailgate lift cylinder and it came with the incorrect mounting brackets on it. I found these and ordered them. They were an exact match for the mounting brackets I had on the other lift cylinder. The changed out easily in about 2 minutes. They are well made and sturdy. Good product.

Super strong but a bit pricey

I was having trouble figuring out how to mount my lift struts for my teardrop trailer. I bought these brackets and they are working well. Using with 24 inch, 60 lb struts.

These are made from heavy material, and look very strong, but the stud that attaches the ball to the bracket protrudes out the back, so you have to drill a shallow 9mm hole to fix these in place.