---
product_id: 19173587
title: "Inkbird Temp Control Thermostat ITC1000 Dual Stage Digital Temperature Switch Controller ℃ ℉ Display Heating Cooling Relay NTC Sensor 3D Printer Freezer Fridge Hatching 110 Volt"
brand: "inkbird"
price: "€ 44.47"
currency: EUR
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 8
category: "Inkbird"
url: https://www.desertcart.fr/products/19173587-inkbird-temp-control-thermostat-itc1000-dual-stage-digital-temperature-switch
store_origin: FR
region: France
---

# Precise digital ℃/℉ display Sensor failure & high-temp alarm Dual-stage heating & cooling control Inkbird Temp Control Thermostat ITC1000 Dual Stage Digital Temperature Switch Controller ℃ ℉ Display Heating Cooling Relay NTC Sensor 3D Printer Freezer Fridge Hatching 110 Volt

**Brand:** inkbird
**Price:** € 44.47
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> 🌟 Take control of your climate with precision and ease!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** Inkbird Temp Control Thermostat ITC1000 Dual Stage Digital Temperature Switch Controller ℃ ℉ Display Heating Cooling Relay NTC Sensor 3D Printer Freezer Fridge Hatching 110 Volt by inkbird
- **How much does it cost?** € 44.47 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.fr](https://www.desertcart.fr/products/19173587-inkbird-temp-control-thermostat-itc1000-dual-stage-digital-temperature-switch)

## Best For

- inkbird enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted inkbird brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Fail-Safe Alerts:** Stay ahead with built-in alarms that notify you of sensor errors or dangerous temperature spikes.
- • **Dual-Stage Mastery:** Seamlessly switch between heating and cooling modes for ultimate temperature precision.
- • **Crystal Clear Display:** Instantly read temperatures in both Celsius and Fahrenheit on a sharp digital screen.
- • **Plug & Play Simplicity:** User-friendly wiring design means setup is quick, safe, and hassle-free—even for beginners.
- • **Versatile Applications:** Perfect for 3D printers, fermentation chambers, fridges, brooders, and more—control your environment like a pro.

## Overview

The Inkbird ITC1000 is a compact, dual-stage digital temperature controller featuring an easy-to-read ℃/℉ LCD display, reliable heating and cooling relay outputs, and built-in alarms for sensor failure and high temperature. Designed for versatile use in environments like 3D printing, refrigeration, and incubation, it offers professional-grade accuracy and user-friendly wiring at an unbeatable price point.

## Description

Buy Inkbird Temp Control Thermostat ITC1000 Dual Stage Digital Temperature Switch Controller ℃ ℉ Display Heating Cooling Relay NTC Sensor 3D Printer Freezer Fridge Hatching 110 Volt: Temperature Controllers - desertcart.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

Review: for the price, I can't praise it enough! - I usually write reviews for things I feel I should share information about. this is one of them. Electronic equipment like this should cost AT LEAST 5x more. I've purchased similar electronics for my research work that do far simpler tasks, yet cost hundreds of dollars. this little guy is just as good in quality and costs far less. Background: i use this to control a mini fridge to effectively create a fermentation chamber for my homebrew wort/beer. You can use it for nearly anything that needs temperature control. Ive even heard of people creating heating chambers using a lightbulb that turns on and off. that is the beauty of this switch, is the flexibility and simplicity of use. I call it a switch because essentially that's all it does. It reads a temperature and switches the circuit on and off depending on your set parameters. I read a lot on forums about wiring diagrams etc. because i was afraid i would wire it wrong. actually it's REALLY easy to wire, you only need the wiring diagram that came with it. Most people who use the STC-1000 on forums have it wired in a FAR more complicated manner than necessary, which, IMO is excessively complicated. If you want to use this as a temperature controller for a fridge like I did, you only need a couple of extra things: extra medium duty extension cord (3 prong), elecrical tape or shrink tube, and/or wire nuts and/or crimp connectors. The extension cord is TECHNICALLY optional because you could cut the fridge cord and wire it inline but you really should leave that cord intact and use a separate one incase you need to rewire later. You don't want to mess with the appliance wire anyway, and you get extra wire that helps you to hook the STC-1000 up properly. trust me, just spend the extra few bucks a get an extension cord from home depot. Also, Ideally you should use a soldering iron to get a good connection, but wire nuts or crimps work just as well. I prefer soldering my connections but your preference is fine. Just don't try to twist and electrical tape it your you're just asking for a fire. Next, to wire it up, you only need to be concerned with two color wires, the black (hot) and white (neutral). If you cut the spare cord, to minimize the soldering or crimp/wire nut work, be sure to not cut the green (ground) wire. Its ok if you do, but you then need to connect the two lose ends again later anyway, wasting crimps/wire nuts. When you cut the black and white wires, be sure to cut an extra 5-6 inches or so of wire out as leads for the next steps. No one mentions this, but what I did is actually put 2 wires into each numbered port, therefore minimizing the number of connections. If you do it right, the only crimped connection you'll need is 1 neutral (white) wire. If you cut the green (ground) wire, you'll need 3 connections.... Here's how I did it: first, put the incoming (outlet/male) side black wire into port 1, then take one loose black wire end and also put that into port 1. Tighten the screw for port 1. Run the other end of the loose black wire that's in port 1 and put it into port 7 (cooling port). Tighten port 7. Take the appliance (female) plug side black wire and put that into port 8 (the other cooling port) and tighten port 8. place the white wire from the outlet/male side into port 2. Take one end of the loose white wire that you cut out of the extension and also put that into port 2. Tighten port 2. Now solder/wire nut/crimp the loose end of the white wire to the female/appliance port side. That's it! The beauty of this is that it doesn't matter if you reverse ports 1/2 (put black into 2 and white into 1) or use neutral (white wire) in ports 7/8 instead of hot (black wire), which is why it isn't labeled as such. This controller is very flexible and allows many ways of wiring. For me, this way was the simplest which is why I used it. Good luck!
Review: NIce, requires only basic wiring skills - I was bored, so I bought two worm factories Worm Factory 360 WF360B Worm Composter, Black . Wanted to see how they worked. When cold weather came - I brought the worm factories inside. I brought the worms inside because when the cold comes - the worms at best - stop composting - and at worst - die and now you have rotted food and have to start over. The fruit fries got pretty bad inside the house. Only my dog enjoyed chasing the fruit flies. So I needed a way to insulate and heat the worm factories outside. I went down to my local big box hardware store and bought a deck box big enough to hold the worm factories. Most temperature controllers are $200 so I saved $180 by buying this Elitech controller. I can afford a $100 deck box. I bought two "clip on light bulb holders" and two Brooder Heat Lamps. I also bought an aquarium reptile temperature monitor Zoo Med Digital Terrarium Thermometer to double check the Elitech controller. Wiring up the Elitech device was easy and straight forward. Power line (with regular two prong plug) coming in. I would recommend getting an in line fuse holder. Also need two wire jumpers to jump the main power to the switched power line. For the wire jumpers just cut two pieces of wire and strip the ends. Then I cut the plug ends off the "clip on light bulb holders" to wire them straight in. If I wanted shorter cables I could have cut one of the light bulb holder cables in half and used that cable for my main power coming in. Then it was a matter of powering the unit up, setting the temperature, it immediately switched into heating mode, and turned on the heat lamps. When it reached the set point, turned the heat lamps off. Exactly what I needed. The Elitech unit works in degrees Celcius (not Farenheit). That is the biggest drawback. I got a sticker and wrote down 50 deg F = 10 deg C, 60 deg F = 15.5 deg C. Good news is the reptile temperature monitor works in both C and F. So you can use it to check your conversions. But for the money you saved - this Elitech is the best bargin on desertcart. The Aquarium temperature monitor sits outside the deck box - temperature sensor cable going inside the box. So I can monitor the temperature inside the box without having to open it (which would change the temperature). The only other negative thing I can think of is - the Elitech and Aquarium temp monitor differ by two degrees. I can adjust the Elitech - but is the Elitec wrong or is the Aquarium temp monitor wrong? The worms have not noticed - and can't read the temp displays - so I don't plan to tell them.

## Features

- It does indeed read in deg F
- Can control both heating and cooling output
- Has an alarm to indicate sensor failure or high temperature
- Highly accurate and reliable temperature controller
- Be more user friendly than the STC-1000

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B0152LYY0I |
| Best Sellers Rank | #17,363 in Industrial & Scientific ( See Top 100 in Industrial & Scientific ) #12 in Temperature Controllers |
| Brand | Inkbird |
| Brand Name | Inkbird |
| Color | Grey |
| Customer Reviews | 4.5 out of 5 stars 1,666 Reviews |
| Display Type | LCD or LED |
| Included Components | Temp Control Thermostat |
| Item Dimensions L x W x H | 3.93"L x 3.77"W x 1.49"H |
| Item Type Name | Temp Control Thermostat |
| Manufacturer | LERWAY Tech. |
| Material | Plastic |
| Material Type | Plastic |
| Product Dimensions | 3.93"L x 3.77"W x 1.49"H |
| UPC | 705701562658 |
| Voltage | 110 Volts |

## Product Details

- **Color:** Grey
- **Brand:** Inkbird
- **Voltage:** 110 Volts
- **Product Dimensions:** 3.93"L x 3.77"W x 1.49"H
- **Material:** Plastic

## Images

![Inkbird Temp Control Thermostat ITC1000 Dual Stage Digital Temperature Switch Controller ℃ ℉ Display Heating Cooling Relay NTC Sensor 3D Printer Freezer Fridge Hatching 110 Volt - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71zuU2fMevL.jpg)

## Available Options

This product comes in different **Size** options.

## Questions & Answers

**Q: does the display show actual temperature, or just the temperature preset?**
A: Not sure why all of the false answers here.  Yes, it shows the actual temperature - and by setting an option in the menu, it will display it in C or F.  Apparently there are a lot of people who don't know how to use the product they've bought.  Read the user manual linked to on the page.

**Q: Does this controller maintain the settings I program into it, even if the power goes off?  Very important to know.**
A: I've been using this controller for some time now on my keezer and fermentation chamber.  Recently experienced a power outage at my house that lasted over 72hours.  The unit does maintain settings both when manually powered down as well as if power is interrupted from the outlet.  But even better than that, when the power came back the unit retained that it was in the "on" setting and turned back on without needing to be manually turned on.  I have built out a few of these units for my needs as well as for friends.  I love them.

**Q: can I set separate high and low temps to run a heat lamp in winter and cooling fan in the summer?**
A: The answer is yes and no.  Technically, you can run a heat and cooling cycle at the same time.  The trigger temperature can be any temperature.  But, the trigger temperatures for cooling and heating can not be more than 20C (36F) apart.All the information is in the included instructions, but the setting of this unit is not very easy to understand.There are two temperatures to set.  The first one is the middle (or set) temperature.  Nothing is actually triggered at this temperature.The second setting is the difference temperature.  this is a +/- plus and minus temperature.So, if you want the heat to turn on at 15C (59F) and the cooling to turn on at 25C (77F), you need to "set" the temperature at 20C and the program the difference temperature at 5C;  20C +/-5C.  The cooling relay is triggered at 25C.  The heat relay is triggered at 15C.  (Nothing is triggered at 20C)Seems strange, but that's how it works.See how easy?If you are using this for only one trigger, keep the difference setting as low as you can (0.3C?), and then the middle or set temperature becomes the trigger temperature for heat or cool.

**Q: Has anyone extended the sensor leads by another 30'? I am thinking about this to control my outdoor wood stove from inside.**
A: I'm not sure the original thermistor will handle the heat of a wood stove, it is rubber coated. But with that said,with the thermistor at the max on my chart 110*C the resistance is down to 713 ohms. 60 feet of # 22 wire is about 1 ohm, # #24 is about 1.5 ohms, So the temperature error introduced by the extra wire is less than 0.02%.

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ for the price, I can't praise it enough!
*by A***R on July 29, 2013*

I usually write reviews for things I feel I should share information about. this is one of them. Electronic equipment like this should cost AT LEAST 5x more. I've purchased similar electronics for my research work that do far simpler tasks, yet cost hundreds of dollars. this little guy is just as good in quality and costs far less. Background: i use this to control a mini fridge to effectively create a fermentation chamber for my homebrew wort/beer. You can use it for nearly anything that needs temperature control. Ive even heard of people creating heating chambers using a lightbulb that turns on and off. that is the beauty of this switch, is the flexibility and simplicity of use. I call it a switch because essentially that's all it does. It reads a temperature and switches the circuit on and off depending on your set parameters. I read a lot on forums about wiring diagrams etc. because i was afraid i would wire it wrong. actually it's REALLY easy to wire, you only need the wiring diagram that came with it. Most people who use the STC-1000 on forums have it wired in a FAR more complicated manner than necessary, which, IMO is excessively complicated. If you want to use this as a temperature controller for a fridge like I did, you only need a couple of extra things: extra medium duty extension cord (3 prong), elecrical tape or shrink tube, and/or wire nuts and/or crimp connectors. The extension cord is TECHNICALLY optional because you could cut the fridge cord and wire it inline but you really should leave that cord intact and use a separate one incase you need to rewire later. You don't want to mess with the appliance wire anyway, and you get extra wire that helps you to hook the STC-1000 up properly. trust me, just spend the extra few bucks a get an extension cord from home depot. Also, Ideally you should use a soldering iron to get a good connection, but wire nuts or crimps work just as well. I prefer soldering my connections but your preference is fine. Just don't try to twist and electrical tape it your you're just asking for a fire. Next, to wire it up, you only need to be concerned with two color wires, the black (hot) and white (neutral). If you cut the spare cord, to minimize the soldering or crimp/wire nut work, be sure to not cut the green (ground) wire. Its ok if you do, but you then need to connect the two lose ends again later anyway, wasting crimps/wire nuts. When you cut the black and white wires, be sure to cut an extra 5-6 inches or so of wire out as leads for the next steps. No one mentions this, but what I did is actually put 2 wires into each numbered port, therefore minimizing the number of connections. If you do it right, the only crimped connection you'll need is 1 neutral (white) wire. If you cut the green (ground) wire, you'll need 3 connections.... Here's how I did it: first, put the incoming (outlet/male) side black wire into port 1, then take one loose black wire end and also put that into port 1. Tighten the screw for port 1. Run the other end of the loose black wire that's in port 1 and put it into port 7 (cooling port). Tighten port 7. Take the appliance (female) plug side black wire and put that into port 8 (the other cooling port) and tighten port 8. place the white wire from the outlet/male side into port 2. Take one end of the loose white wire that you cut out of the extension and also put that into port 2. Tighten port 2. Now solder/wire nut/crimp the loose end of the white wire to the female/appliance port side. That's it! The beauty of this is that it doesn't matter if you reverse ports 1/2 (put black into 2 and white into 1) or use neutral (white wire) in ports 7/8 instead of hot (black wire), which is why it isn't labeled as such. This controller is very flexible and allows many ways of wiring. For me, this way was the simplest which is why I used it. Good luck!

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ NIce, requires only basic wiring skills
*by F***S on November 12, 2013*

I was bored, so I bought two worm factories Worm Factory 360 WF360B Worm Composter, Black . Wanted to see how they worked. When cold weather came - I brought the worm factories inside. I brought the worms inside because when the cold comes - the worms at best - stop composting - and at worst - die and now you have rotted food and have to start over. The fruit fries got pretty bad inside the house. Only my dog enjoyed chasing the fruit flies. So I needed a way to insulate and heat the worm factories outside. I went down to my local big box hardware store and bought a deck box big enough to hold the worm factories. Most temperature controllers are $200 so I saved $180 by buying this Elitech controller. I can afford a $100 deck box. I bought two "clip on light bulb holders" and two Brooder Heat Lamps. I also bought an aquarium reptile temperature monitor Zoo Med Digital Terrarium Thermometer to double check the Elitech controller. Wiring up the Elitech device was easy and straight forward. Power line (with regular two prong plug) coming in. I would recommend getting an in line fuse holder. Also need two wire jumpers to jump the main power to the switched power line. For the wire jumpers just cut two pieces of wire and strip the ends. Then I cut the plug ends off the "clip on light bulb holders" to wire them straight in. If I wanted shorter cables I could have cut one of the light bulb holder cables in half and used that cable for my main power coming in. Then it was a matter of powering the unit up, setting the temperature, it immediately switched into heating mode, and turned on the heat lamps. When it reached the set point, turned the heat lamps off. Exactly what I needed. The Elitech unit works in degrees Celcius (not Farenheit). That is the biggest drawback. I got a sticker and wrote down 50 deg F = 10 deg C, 60 deg F = 15.5 deg C. Good news is the reptile temperature monitor works in both C and F. So you can use it to check your conversions. But for the money you saved - this Elitech is the best bargin on Amazon. The Aquarium temperature monitor sits outside the deck box - temperature sensor cable going inside the box. So I can monitor the temperature inside the box without having to open it (which would change the temperature). The only other negative thing I can think of is - the Elitech and Aquarium temp monitor differ by two degrees. I can adjust the Elitech - but is the Elitec wrong or is the Aquarium temp monitor wrong? The worms have not noticed - and can't read the temp displays - so I don't plan to tell them.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Working great for 3-years now
*by R***C on January 1, 2014*

Nice inexpensive digital thermostat, which was available when I needed it and has served me very well. But I now recommend similar Fahrenheit versions instead, as they are equally functional, and more user friendly (just hit Set then Up/Dn to change temperature). I've gotten three of these now, the first one has been controlling a swamp cooler for over 3-years now, without a single hiccup. Another is installed in my old refrigerator, since ordering a drop-in replacement (mechanical) thermostat from the store was going to cost $80, and that's been working for over 2-years, now. The third has been controlling someone else's swamp cooler for over 2-years now. Programming this thermostat is much more difficult than it should be, and takes a little bit of time to understand, but a quick cheat-sheet is good enough for anyone to figure it out when they need to. Terribly disappointing, though, that you can't just hit the up/down arrows to adjust the temperature, but instead need to go through a convoluted process that needs two-hands. Same goes for converting temperatures to/from Celsius all the time. This thermostat fits nicely into a standard 4-inch square, blue PVC, 2-Gang Quick Connect Outlet Box with a matching "blank cover". I surface-mounted it with just two screws near my swamp cooler controls. I cut out most of one side to fit this thermostat, and drilled a couple holes for wires. It's a bigger job than a mechanical thermostat, as you need to find which wires are hot and neutral for power, tap into and run twice as many wires. But it's well-worth the effort. Mechanical thermostats aren't terribly accurate, have a tendency to get stuck from time to time, and don't let you adjust hysteresis or other settings. This one has been super-reliable, offering very fine-grained control, and extremely accurate temperature control, keeping me much more comfortable, while saving lots of money, and also offering much more peace of mind. My refrigerator was a bit of a rush job, but proved fairly easy to modify to use with this thermostat in under 3 hours time with a bit of wire crimping and plastic work. Power was available nearby from the light switch, and there was enough room on the face-plate that it was only a matter of cutting out some plastic. The temperature probe is long enough to place anywhere desired, and picks up temperature changes quickly. While the 2-3 watts it consumes and heats-up the interior of the refrigerator with is less than ideal, it's a fraction as much as the hot light bulbs inside, and lost in the noise of opening the doors a few minutes every day. The ease of mounting inside the fridge (rather than drilling holes) is well worth the very minor heat output.

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*Product available on Desertcart France*
*Store origin: FR*
*Last updated: 2026-03-07*