BOSCH 15717 Premium Original Equipment Oxygen Sensor - Compatible with Select 1989-16 Ford, Jaguar, Lincoln, Mazda, Mercury

My Check engine light came on and when I scanned it with my scan tool I got code P0307 and P0420. I figured it had to be the O2 sensor. I called the dealer and they quoted me a price of over $140 for both sensors, I went to the local autozone and the price there was $43.99 plus tax for Part Number: 15717 Down-stream sensor and $46.99 plus tax for Part Number: 15718 Up-stream sensor. A grand total after tax of close to $100. I searched on my phone and found that Amazon had both for a combined cost of $60 plus free prime shipping. After I install these sensors my check engine light went away. These are direct fit for the Expedition, so there is no cut or splicing of wires required. P0307 A code P0307 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: 1 Faulty spark plug or wire 2 Faulty coil (pack) 3 Faulty oxygen sensor(s) 4 Faulty fuel injector 5 Burned exhaust valve 6 Faulty catalytic converter(s) 7 Running out of fuel 8 Poor compression 9 Defective computer P0420 1 A code P0420 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: 2 Leaded fuel was used where unleaded was called for 3 A damaged or failed oxygen sensor (HO2S) 4 Downstream oxygen sensor (HO2S) wiring damaged or connected improperly 5 The engine coolant temperature sensor is not working properly 6 Damaged or leaking exhaust manifold / catalytic converter / muffler / exhaust pipe 7 Retarded spark timing 8 The oxygen sensors in front and behind the converter are reporting too similar of readings 9 Leaking fuel injector or high fuel pressure 10 Cylinder misfire 11 Oil contamination Edit: 04/02/2013 So far the o2 sensors are still working correctly. Also, I failed to mention in my original review, that this vehicle (2000 5.4 XLT Expedition) carries 4 o2 sensors. 2 upstream and 2 downstream. I only replaced the 2 on the passenger side because I knew they were bad due to an oil leak. If you are replacing your o2 sensors just make sure you know which ones are bad.

I replaced my Oxygen sensors to try to improve my mpg, I have not had a check engine light nor do i use cheap gas so i was not sure what to expect for results. Bosch is the perfect brand to go to in my opinion. All their parts are made well. There was anti seize pasted on the threads when i opened the box which shows their attention to detail. They threaded right in and plugged into the factory harness. The only issue i had was the wiring on the sensor was longer than factory (i guess to make it apply to multiply vehicles) but with some zipties it was clear of the exhaust. My truck started right up and actually idled about 200 rpm higher than normal. After the computer relearned with a fresh set of sensors, everything is normal. I did not notice any significant mpg gains, about a half an mpg but it is difficult to tell if thats the sensors the tranny that had to be rebuilt within a hundred miles of replacing the sensors (I was doing other work on the truck too). Overall i would recommend this for anyone replacing their Oxygen sensors. Also, the price on amazon is far greater than any auto store 1999 Ford Explorer 4.0 SOHC

I have always had great results with Bosch 02 sensors. Cheap brands tend to fail after such a short time. I purchased these(15718 & 15717) for my 1997 Ford Explorer 4.0 SOHC ~6yrs ago. They have been trouble free since. While I no longer own the vehicle, I know who does and they have not replaced them ~80kmi later. Bosch supplies a small tube of copper anti-seize with each sensor as well. Bosch reverse engineers all of their sensors based directly off OEM specs. They also test every sensor and use premium components for a very low failure rate. Best of all...MADE IN USA!! I highly recommend buying these. I liked this small excerpt their site: "One of the largest Bosch oxygen sensor factories is located in the U.S. in Anderson, South Carolina. We have been producing O2 sensors here since 1991 and we currently produce 15+ million sensors annually. Our O2 sensor reverse engineering team is located within this OE facility and is solely dedicated to serve the aftermarket division of Bosch. For oxygen sensors where we are not the OE supplier, we will reverse engineer the sensors and produce them on exactly the same production lines as our OE oxygen sensors. No other O2 sensor manufacturer has this unique capability. Between our OE O2 sensors and our reverse engineered sensors roughly 90% of our annual sales get produced on Bosch OE production lines."

Great buy! Fits perfect and working to expectation.

Perfectly fit, got correct values

Ford Ranger P1131 Code 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD 3.0 Flex Fuel with P1131 code. Trouble code P1131 means: Lack Of HO2S11 Switches - Sensor Indicates Lean. The possible causes are the same for code P1130: Excess fuel pressure: My 2000 Ranger would always get Check Engine Light two days after filling up: after the fuel pump went ‘ca-chunk’ I would goose it a few more ‘ca-chunks’ to really top off the tank. After I stopped doing that the error code stopped 95%, sometimes when I fill up and then it gets really hot out the fuel expands and sets the code—but much rarely, it used to be every single time I filled up. I spent $9 and changed the PCV valve (really easy and no tools required: just fingers). I also sprayed cleaner into my IAC valve. Instead of getting a P1131 code every week I only get it once a month. After I did the above (including not overfilling my gas tank) for kicks I cleaned my MAF sensor (with circuit board cleaner, but CRC makes a special MAF spray cleaner if you're unsure). I also cleaned the huge connector for the flex fuel sensor which is underneath the truck under the driver's seat on the inside of the rail: sometimes those connectors get filled with water/mud. For good measure I changed the fuel filter too (even though I de-compressed the system it still sprayed like 4 dixie cups worth of gasoline when I unhooked it--be careful). Turns out most of my problem was overfilling, or filling right before a big rise in temperature outside that swelled the gas in the tank. DUH! It was always weird that people would say it might be the actual sensor going bad: "Your 02 sensor is going off, so change the sensor!" Like, think about that: if your smoke alarm in your house went off you wouldn't buy a new smoke alarm would you? You put out the fire. So since 2003 I've had this issue and I finally fixed it by not topping off my fuel tank, and I think carb cleaner in the IAC valve helped get rid of the rough idle! And everything was fine until the first ever change of spark plugs at 93k: mileage went up, but the CEL went on every day! Same p1131 code plus a p1132, so changing the right (passenger side) upstream (closest to the engine near the front tire) O2 sensor with this unit worked and I've got the idle so smooth it's almost better than new! THE ABOVE FIXES Oh, you can clear a CEL code with a cheap $15 OBD II reader, or (on a Ford Ranger) unplug the car battery, turn the key on and off 6 times. This clears the code, but also clears your radio station presets ;) Other P1130 and P1131 problems can be: Fuel system pressure/problem (gas cap, overfilling gas tank, leaking/losing fuel pressure, leaking fuel filter or vapor system). Oil pressure problem: loose oil dipstick. Leaking or contaminated fuel injectors. Stuck EGR valve. Too much oil/oil overfilled. PCV valve problem. Cylinder or exhaust or vacuum leak. Leaking gaskets or hoses. Damaged PCM or HO2s sensors. Water in VPWR or HO2s or Flex Fuel wire connectors.

This is just what my truck needed. Best price I could find. Fast shipping. It’s OEM quality. It turned off my check engine light, the original to the truck gave up.

I installed the Bosch 15717 and 15719 sensors (upstream and downstream) in my 1998 Ford Escort SE 2.0L thinking I was doing the right thing. They're advertised as “exact fit,” but they absolutely wrecked my car’s performance. My fuel economy tanked, and I couldn’t get the drive cycle to complete — which meant I couldn’t pass DEQ. No check engine light, no stored codes, just constant frustration. I replaced the cat, thermostat, MAF, and spent weeks chasing a problem that turned out to be these Bosch sensors. I finally connected a scan tool and saw the upstream O2 was stuck around 0.480V — exactly what Ford’s ECU hates. It never entered proper closed loop, and the readiness monitors never flipped. After researching and learning how picky Ford ECUs are, I replaced them with NTK direct-fit sensors (NTK 22016 and NTK 22056). Problem solved. Instantly saw proper O2 voltage cycling, better fuel trims, and the drive cycle completed on the first run. Bosch might work for some brands, but on older Fords — especially with SPI engines — they’re a total mismatch. You’ll waste fuel, waste time, and fail emissions for months like I did. Not worth the headache. Stick with NTK or Motorcraft.

The Bosch 15717 Oxygen Sensor is a high-quality component that offers precise and accurate readings of oxygen levels in the exhaust system. Designed with OE type fitment, it seamlessly replaces the original sensor, ensuring proper compatibility and functionality. This sensor plays a crucial role in monitoring and adjusting the air-fuel mixture, optimizing engine performance and reducing emissions. The durable construction and reliable operation of the Bosch 15717 Oxygen Sensor make it a trusted choice for vehicle owners looking to maintain the performance and efficiency of their vehicles.

Excelente producto instalación fácil

Instalado en ford f150, 1998, 4.2l, 6 Cil Se instaló del lado del conductor. Con ello se suprimio el código P1131

Works as it should will buy again if needed

Quedaron perfecto y se borraron mis códigos de error.