Mail Boss In-Ground Heavy Duty Steel Mailbox Post for Mail Boss Mailboxes

Bought this for my new mailbox and it was very easy to install. My old box was cemented into the ground so I cut it low, stuck a 4x4 inside and slid this one on top. I sealed and buried the seam and now it looks like I never Jerry rigged it. Powder coat is solid and will last. It’s easy to spray clean. And it’s solid.

Durable, strong, well powdercoated/painted post. Easy to install, very secure, looks great, works well with mail boss mailbox. Average price.

So easy to install and it looks flawless! Very happy with its durability.

Sturdy. Does its job

Using the Mail Boss 7123 Bronze In‑Ground Mounting Post has given my mailbox a strong, stable base that feels built to last. The steel construction is heavy and solid, and once installed, it doesn’t wobble or shift. The bronze finish looks clean and blends well with the yard without drawing too much attention. Installation was straightforward, and the post holds the mailbox firmly even in rough weather. For a dependable, no‑nonsense mounting post, it’s been exactly what I needed.

Ok. It’s a fairly simple steel post. What do you need to know about a post?! Several things. MailBoss claims their steel post is galvanized steel that has a powder coat. I can confirm the powder coat, but while the outside may be galvanized and then covered with the baked on powder coat, the inside of my post was raw steel. It’s going in the ground, why does that matter?! If you bought the in 43” ground post, you’re only looking at about 12”, give or take, in the ground. If you have sandy or loose soil, you’ll need to put a wooden 4x4 inside. No biggy .. just go to the big home improvement store, buy a pressure treated post and stick it inside, right? No!!! The inside of the steel post might be raw or might be galvanized. EITHER way, if you put a pressure treated 4x4 inside the steel post, bad things will happen. There’s copper in the pressure treatment used in the wooden post. When copper and zinc touch (zinc is the galvanization used to protect the steel) or to a lesser extent, when copper and steel touch, you will get galvanic corrosion which will first quickly eat away at the zinc and then eat away at the steel. Every spot where the pressure treated wood touches the metal, the metal will corrode. Eventually, it will corrode Badly! So, if you go with a non pressure treated wood, you won’t have galvanic corrosion, but the wood will rot from the moisture in the concrete. So .. what you need to do is first buy a quality pressure treated 4x4. I went to a lumber yard. It was a few dollars more, but it had a much better pressure treatment. It was a darker green color, meaning more copper protection for the wood, but that also means more copper for galvanic corrosion. Now, when builders have metal that comes in contact with pressure treated wood, they use a barrier to prevent the two from coming in direct contact and they use stainless steel fittings which greatly minimizes any potential galvanic corrosion. The metal post has a large enough inside diameter that you can buy some thick heavy duty plastic sheeting and wrap the wooden post in one to two layers of the heavy duty plastic. I purchased a roll of heavy duty 6 mil plastic which was the thickest I could buy at the local hardware store. I made sure I had full coverage of the wood going into the steel post. I wrapped the plastic about 1.5 times around the length of the post (I used packing tape to hold the plastic in place) and I left about 3 to 4 inches of extra plastic on the top end going into the steel post. That way, when the wooden post is inserted inside the steel post, even the top end of the wood can’t contact the steel. The wrapped wooden post slid into the steel post with no problem at all. On the bottom end, I ensured I had about 6” of plastic past the end of the steel post that was still covering the wood. I cut my wooden pressure treated 4x4 post long enough to be fully inserted and still have 16” sticking out the bottom of the steel post. (Note: make sure there are no metal burrs on the open end of the steel post, including the lower holes, that can cut the plastic when the post is being inserted.) (Note: MAKE SURE the bolts used to mount the mailbox on the top of the steel post are fully screwed in when you insert the wooden post. Otherwise you may have trouble getting the mailbox mounting bolts to go in after you’ve inserted the wood AND you may end up causing galvanic corrosion through the supplied galvanized steel bolts.) Once the wooden post was inside, I used 4 stainless steel lag bolts to ensure the wooden post doesn’t separate from the steel post. (Using lag bolts to connect the wood and steel posts is recommended by MailBoss, but they didn’t supply the lag bolts.) (Note: when you tighten the lag bolts, the powder coat WILL be damaged. I spayed the bolts and surrounding area with Rustoleum Enamel paint from a rattle can to ensure it won’t rust from moisture in the concrete.) Now that the post is properly prepared, NOW it’s simply a post (all be it a much heavier post) that you’re placing in the ground. Buy some bags of instant concrete, pour a few inches in the hole, insert the post, pour in the remaining concrete from the first bag, wet it, add the next bag, wet it, etc .. and in a few days, your post will be rock solid. Hope this helps you have decades of corrosion free service from your steel mailbox post. PS: The MailBoss information that comes with the post only shows a wooden post going part way up the inside of the steel post. My thought was if the wooden post is completely inserted, the steel post is now for all practical purposes, solid .. meaning your post is less likely to be dented if something accidentally hits the post.

Used to pair it with the mailbox. It makes a great match and is very strong

Very happy with mailbox post. My husband had no problem installing it. Would recommend it.

Prima Vollpfosten :-)

Like how you can insert a 4 x 4 wooden post to help strengthen it

Beau fini. Un prix vraiment fantastique au moment de mon achat

Easy to install

Only one bolt was moving in/out easily, but other 2 needed a lot of torque & difficult to take out or screw in even with the best tools. The 4th bolt was … hammered in !!! head damaged by hammer, male & female threads totally destroyed, I had to cut the bolt off (no time for replacement). Found another replacement bolt, and fixed the 3 female threads with a specialized toolset. Took a bit of time, but I was able to use it.