Aim Sports M44/Mosin Nagant 91/30 Scope Mount (Short)

It works, and it works great. As others have mentioned, it does NOT come with mounting instructions, but they are not needed. The reviews here on Amazon were superb for helping wrt installation of this scope mount onto a Mosin Nagant (almost better than the Nagant forums!). Mine is on a 1946 M44 Russian carbine with bayonet. The AIM scope mount does come with three allen wrenches. First, learn about your weapon (there's a TON out there about the Nagant). Here's a bit more detail for installing this mount CORRECTLY and with MINIMUM DRILLING/METALWORK: Punch the pin out of the rear sight pivot on the rifle, and remove the rear sight leaf. Leave the rear sight leaf SPRING (the FLAT, horizontal, metal piece) on the rifle. Take the thin mounting screw out of the scope mount you just bought. Drill out the hole in the scope mount that the screw was in (needs a 1/8" drill bit). Throw away the screw (and nut). Use the smallest allen wrench to loosen the hold-screws on the SIDE of the scope mount. Fully remove the FRONT-most set screw from the scope mount, using the largest allen wrench. File down the "pointed end" of that screw to "near-flat" using a normal metal file, and re-insert the screw into the front hole on the scope mount. Set the scope mount on top of the rifle's rear sight mount. It will NOT line up when you first place it there, and it will NOT line up with simple hand pressure! Use a C-clamp to compress the scope mount into position on the rear sight mount (use some rags or something to protect the rifle and the new scope mount where the c-clamp engages each). It WILL line up FULLY with a c-clamp! Tighten the c-clamp against the heavy pressure from the rear sight spring until the drilled-hole in the scope mount aligns with the rear sight mount's side holes (where you punched the pin out). This will take some torque! There is NO NEED to drill additional holes in either the scope mount or (heaven forbid!) the rifle! Once aligned, gently tap the pin back into the now-aligned holes, to hold the scope mount in the rear sight mount. (Right here, you can almost be done; the thing is in there rock-solid just from the spring pressure.) Loosen the c-clamp and move it aft a bit (~ two inches), towards the rear of the rifle, and tighten the clamp again to get "parallel alignment" with the barrel. Tighen down the front set screw on the scope mount (the one you filed down). Tighten the hold-screw on the side of the front set screw. Remove the C-clamp. For grins, go ahead and snug down the aft two set screws on the mount, and then the hold screws on the sides; regardless of what you do with those, this scope mount is NOT moving! It is held firmly in place, almost with just the pin and spring, without screws! Don't be dissuaded; for $9 this is GREAT, AND you do not need to make any "irreversible, permanent" changes/drillings into your relic weapon. You can always reverse the process and put your iron rear sight back on. Buy this with confidence. Also, concur with need for LER scope and a good ring set. Try these, they work great with this rifle/mount combination to get the proper eye relief (8-10") without breaking the bank: Leapers Accushot 1-Pc Offset Mount w/1 Rings, Weaver/Picatinny Mount NcStar 2-7X32E Red Illuminated Pistol and Long Eye Relief/Ring/Blue Lens Enjoy your weapon! UPDATE: Took this to the range. Worked perfectly. No problems with recoil; the mount held solid, scope was zeroed, everything went fine. Did not need loctite either! Buy and install this with confidence. Works like a charm. NOTE: you don't need the Leapers Offset mount. The offset would actually put the scope over the extraction port and possibly damage your scope when extracting the shells (as well, my Nagant is a straight bolt, so I could not open/close the bolt with the scope set back far). The mount rings that came with the NcStar scope worked fine. Save the few bucks there.

Garbage on my mosin. I just got around to purchasing a decent scope. This mount is impossible to get level with the barrel. I used the supplied bolt, and left the original spring for added pressure under the mount. It all bolted together better than I expected. This weekend I went to zero in my scope at the range. After maxing the height adjustment on my Nikon, I was still digging a ditch 10 in front of the target. Disappointing for sure. There wasn't any more adjustment to lift the front of the mount. As I started to unscrew the supplied bolt, it snapped... The only thing good I can say about it is it seems very solid once installed. My terrible shots were landing in a very tight group. If they'd take the time to properly engineer the piece and test them, I'm sure the 5 star ratings would pour in.

I bought this for my Mosin Nagant. I wanted something that would allow me to take the gun back to original state without much hassle. This does the trick nicely. I have put my scope on it and had it lined not too long ago. It seems to hold true despite the kick of the gun. It is nice that the mount does come with all of the necessary allen wrenches to adjust and tighten the mount. This is a must for the Mosin if you do not want to permanently alter your gun or remove the rear sight entirely. the part this replaces is relatively easy to get off, but the bottom half of the same sight is quite difficult and usually requires the aid of a gunsmith. Thus I could do this simple operation myself with very few special tools needed (mainly a good punch). Another positive feature of this mount is the height that it gives you. Lowering the scope directly onto the gun leaves the front sight visible in the scope lens. This elevates above that point so you have a clear view. Would reccomend this and buy again if it was needed.

Mounting a scope on this rifle is not easy. It was never designed to mount one without special mounting hardware and some machine work. The original type of sniper scope mounts cost as much if not more then the rifle and then you must do the precise drilling and taping. Then there is the matter of the scope itself. This rifle packs a nice punch and as we know, kicks like a mule. This is tuff on a scopes and mounts. So how do we move fwd? I for one am not going to spend big bucks on scoping this $120.00 rifle. This is my solution: I purchased the Aim Sports Mosin 91/30 short mount and an NcStar 2-7x32 pistol scope. About as cheap as you can go.....about 60 bucks including a bore laser. Installing the mount is not that easy but not all that hard if you have some basic tools and are somewhat skilled in basic smithing. There are several excellent write up's already here in Amazon reviews on this instillation and you SHOULD review them. I did drill out the threaded hole with a #31 drill and discarded the supplied machine screw as I used the original sight pin as most others have done. Be careful removing the sight pin. This is the fwd pin the one that the blade pivots on. It is under spring pressure and I found it removes easier with a little downward pressure from a C-clamp and some protective wood blocks. Save the pin as it will be the new mounts main holding device. Here is where I made a mistake......I think. One of the posts instructed me to remove the flat silver spring and turn it over and reinstall.....I did so. This process is very hard to undue if you decide to do so as the spring will snap down into the cavity and it is all but impossible to remove..... took me almost an hour.....and you can not reinstall the old site with the spring in this new position. As the instruction says the spring pressure point moves aft with this spring reversal and applies more leveradge to the rail. The problem I had was that the fwd set screw that we will file the point off of now can not overcome this added spring leveradge and the mount will not flatten to be alligned to the bore. So.... I did remove the spring and reinstall it in the conventional manor with the end sticking up. I used the supplied set screws and did file the point off the fwd one. You must, as it only has a very small area to contact against to offset the spring pressure when leveling the mount. Compressing the mount into place is quite easy with a common C-clamp. Once you see that the hole is lined up reinsert the original pin you removed to take the old site off. A hint here....... deburr the ends of the pin with a file. Sometimes in the removal process the ends of the pin get messed up and a little file work will make it go much easier. Hammer the pin in so that it is centered in the mount as it was. Once the pin is all the way through and centered you can loosen the C-clamp and the mount should be very sturdy but not flat to the bore....... should be pointing down slightly. This is where that fwd set screw comes in..... the one you filed flat. Reinstall the C-clamp this time more toward the rear of the rail to push it down and level the rail. Once you are alligned to the bore, insert the flat set screw back into the fwd hole and tighten it down. Tight is good but do not strip it. There will be a lot of pressure on this set screw. You can now remove the C-clamp and put a long piece of wood or a yardstick on the rail to see how it matches the bore. If adjustment is required, you can clamp harder and further tighten the fwd screw to raise the rail or now install the two rear pointed screws and tweek the rail down. Final step is to install the small locking set screws from the left side. I have not locktited mine yet but will once I get the scope mounted and am sure no more adjustment is required. I HAVE NOT TESTED THIS YET. However, I believe it will hold for my average use.......20 rounds a month. The NcStar scope and how it holds up to the recoil could be a bigger issue. I will keep you posted.

Required a lot of filing to get it to fit and has very limited adjustability, but does not feel or look like it will fall off anytime soon: have only gone shooting once. If it doesn't hold a zero, it will probably be because I bought a cheap scope. No drilling of any kind was necessary. I managed to use the screw that came with it, actually made it easier to mount once I got it through the first hole. Leave the leaf spring in. I used a cable ties to hold the mount and leaf spring in position to put in the main screw. If it hadn't been such a pain to put on and required no extra tooling I would have given it 5 stars. Can be a very sturdy end product, cheap, and doesn't require you to permanently alter the rifle itself.

How To Properly Install This One: Aim Sports M44/Mosin Nagant 91/30 Scope Mount (Short) I guess it takes a little Physics to figure this one out. I purchased a pair of Nagant 91/30 rifles manufactured in 1939(Hex) and 1942(round) respectively and set about to mount a scope prior to converting them to sniper rifles. I decided to try this AIM short mount so as not to have to drill and tap the receiver. The material is so tough that Drilling and tapping these weapons REQUIRES solid carbide tooling. All the set screws come to points... and The first thing you need to do is REPLACE the front set screw with a Cup-type screw instead of one that comes to a point on the bottom. In a pinch, you can simply grind or file the point off of the existing set screw. This is IMPORTANT because that screw presses down on the front wall of the sight mount, which is rather thin and may be deformed by the original screw. ( You may want to take a flat riffler file and remove a bit from the top of this front wall and flatten it out ). Also, the folks at AIM really need to move that set screw hole about 0.050" toward the rear of the rail.... that would place the screw directly over the center of the bearing wall. After removing the Rear Iron Sight Ramp by tapping out the front retaining pin, you will want to remove and FLIP-OVER the simple bent-leaf spring so that the "hump" is in the middle and facing UP. This is also IMPORTANT because it alters the position of the FULCRUM which then redistributes the force triangle and stabilizes the open end of the rail. You will also want to run a drill through the threaded hole at the front of the rail and throw away the included mounting screw. Make sure the drill is the same diameter as the original PIN that held the iron sights in place. Place the barrel in a vise or use a screw-clamp to compress the new rail against the inverted spring until the drilled mounting hole lines up with the holes in the "Ears" of the sight mount. Tap the ORIGINAL PIN back in to hold the rail in position and then tighten the Front Set Screw until the rail is LEVEL. Tighten the remaining TWO set screws to set the rail in its final position. You will find that this general approach works for ALL of the following Nagant rails and provides a Rock-Solid Installation on ALL the 91/30 and M44 variants. ATI Mosin Nagant Scope Mount with Bolt Handle Mosin Nagant Weaver Rail Type Scout Rifle Scope Mount For 91/30 M38 M44 M39 UTG Mosin Nagant Tri-Rail Mount Mosin Nagant M44 M91/30 M39 M38 Rifle Scope Mount Short NEW Best regards, Offgridsid

After extensive reading on each review for the mount, hearing good and bad - mostly bad I went ahead and got the mount. It did not fit on my Mosin Nagant and I had to Grind the mount itself down for the holes to line up. After doing so the shoulder of the rail collided with the top of the rear iron sights bracket so to get the mount to fit I literally had to Grind that piece down. After doing so the mount fit but it did not stay tight at all... after 3 shots the whole mount was ready to come off AND the screws on the inside were nearly ruined. I cannot use the screws anymore because they’re nearly snapped. I would highly recommend not getting this mount unless you’re crafty with tools because this is not a simple “put on and go” mount.

This mount fits on the rear sight of my Chinese short Mosin Nagant rifle. You tap the pin out of the front of the rear sight and put the scope mount in it's place. I had to use a C clamp to press the scope mount down against the sight spring and line the hole up for the mount screw to go through. It took a couple of minutes and the mount is perfectly level and really solid. I have several older bolt action military rifles that I do not want to tap and drill with scope mounts or bend the bolts and these scope mounts work wonderfully for that purpose. I ordered a pistol scope with a long eye relief for this rifle. Years ago I had a Mauser with this type of scope mount and it was perfect for hunting deer in brush and briar patches. You can keep both eyes open with one eye looking through the scope and when the target shows in the crosshairs pull the trigger and you have them. Moving targets with a regular scope you are limited to the field of view of the scope but this you can use with both eyes open. I love this mounting system and recommend these for rifles that you do not want to drill or bend bolt handles.

Rock solid mount. Follow the directions people have put up here and you won't have any problems. Highly recommend this mount.

Did not fit without filing not rigid enough for a scope

Very tight and solid fit ,Must use a clamp to compress the rear sight spring which gives it a very solid mount will not come loose .

Doesn't stay put. It's close to being a great rail but I am having trouble keeping it locked in place.

It fits just like advertised, thats all that matters.