Wood Filling Epoxy Paste

My PC Woody experience is with treated lumber porches and posts which are five to twenty-five years old. I deal with Louisiana humidity and rain. Old treated lumber tends to get cracks and decayed spots. The cracks tend to get bigger when freezing rain expands the cracks. PC woody sucessfully filled those cracks so that the rain is prevented from invasion. Many decayed spots in the original lumber were removed by force and sucessfully filled with PC Woody. This product is also very effective on the top of 6x6 posts to prevent water invasion. I have used about 10 gallons of PC Woody so far. After PC Woody application the water-based (Behr brand) stain adhered well to the PC woody. The PC Woody adhered well to the old treated lumber surface and deep cracks. Many rot spots were built up with PC Woody to look like the original lumber. The rot spots will quit rotting becasue the PC Woody cuts of the air supply and water supply to the rot spot. I have eliminated the need to sand the PC Woody by using rubbing alcohol to smooth the PC Woody immediately after application--while it has not yet cured. I have also found that rubbing alcohol helps with cleaning the putty knives used in the application process. Put a little rubbing alcohol on a paper towel then use that saturated paper towel to rub the PC woody off of the putty knife. Use a lot of pressure on the paper towel because the PC woody, even uncured PC woody, sticks stongly to the putty knife. Once cleaned with rubbing alcohol and a paper "shop" towel the putty knife can be used over and over. If you let the PC woody cure on the putty knife you will probably choose to throw it away--although the PC woody could be removed by grinding. When using PC Woody, I usually wear plastic disposable gloves, however, when I get some PC Woody on my hands rubbing alcohol will allow me to remove the PC woody from my skin. Use the alcohol first to get rid of the PC woody then wash with soap. The finished product is amazing. It adheres well to the treated lumber. The filling/coating is strong and does not crack--so far. It sticks so well that the repair seems to be as good as the original wood. The porches and posts where the PC Woody was applied and which also have been stained with a dark brown stain now look normal. A casual onlooker would think that nothing was done to the treated lumber. A person who knows what to look for might be able to point out the locations where the PC woody was applied. Without stain the color of the PC woody is light brown--like the color of some types of wood. After a few years I will either update this review or make a new review to provide information on how well the PC Woody holds up. Based on my obervation at this point in time, I am very optimistic that this product will double the lifespan of the porches and posts that I have treated with PC Woody.

PC-Products Wood Repair Epoxy Paste and Wood Hardener Kit is a wood rot remedy to use in order to avoid a major repair job. It is an easy enough product for a DIYer to use and work with. No real special tools are needed. The PC Woody paste is a 2 part epoxy (part A and part B) wood resin which has a chemical cleanup with acetone. The PC Petrifier is a liquid type glue which has a H2O cleanup with regular water. The hardened epoxy is easy to sand, by hand and using regular sandpaper. The epoxy doesn't sag very much and has a long enough working time, even in 85 degree sunny weather, when using it in small mixed batches. You fill holes, crevices and depressions with a glob of the epoxy but it will take longer for it to set up, dry and begin curing. You can build up the epoxy in layers, even after sanding it. It takes primer and paint well. The PC Petrifier is to be used after exposing the rotted wood area and cleaning out as much rot as you can reasonably do with out taking out everything or at least cleaning and prepping the area as if you were going to just be painting it--meaning, get it to reasonably sound and clean state which may involve sanding, removing the debris, then wiping down with isopropyl alcohol. The PC Petrifier is a liquid and the best way to apply it if it is not a flat horizontal surface is to paint it on with a small sponge brush from a disposable plastic cup. Be warned that it can get messy and dries like hardened glue to whatever it gets on so tape off the sounding areas and really tape off below the area with perhaps plastic sheeting overlaid with newspaper to soak up the drips and have a rag and bucket of water nearby toe wipe if necessary. The PC Petrifier will soak into the wood as much as the wood will take and then dries to a darker hardness. Here is what I used (and recommend to use) for repairing about 10 window sills on my house that had various degrees of weathering/aging conditions, the worst being on the south side: disposable gloves, multiple pairs; a rectangular 5"x8" or so piece of thick plastic or plexiglass that is smooth to mix the 2 part epoxy on and use as a pallette to apply the epoxy from; a 1 1/2" putty knife with the corners slightly eased or at least not sharp pointy to mix the epoxy, apply it to the surface and shape with; 2 popsicle sticks or a pint stir stick cut down to similar size,then clearly mark one A and the other B (for each of the epoxy parts); acetone, at least a quart to start; paper towels, lots; painter's blue tape, enough to tape off areas where you don't want epoxy to get on and may want to use paper in conjunction with the tape to cover more as needed; wax paper if filling crevices next to surfaces you don't want epoxy to get on and bond to; paper to tape off surrounding areas as needed, any paper but newspaper or painters paper work well; a small wood rasp, like Stanley tools small 8 inch that is shaped with flat side and a rounded side, each side is half rough and half finer for rapsing and can easily knock down the dried high edges and boogers left from applying the epoxy; sandpaper in 60/80 grits and 100/120 grits to smooth out the dried epoxy; and, acetone, or isopropyl alcohol to wipe the finished sanded surface. Things to remember about epoxy in 2 parts: READ the directions, watch some videos to see how people do it and suggestions, even the dumbs one, so you get an understanding of the product and what to do with it; the size of each epoxy container is going to be doubled in totality so 6 ounces of part A and 6 ounces of part B equals 12 ounces; it is better to get only as much as you think you need but always prepare to get a bit more; the PC Petrifier seems to go a long way in comparison to the epoxy but definitely use what the repair area can soak in; keep each epoxy container well marked, like a A on one lid and B on the other, and closed when not scooping some out; only take out small amounts of epoxy to mix at a time because it does start to get harder to work with in 20-30 minutes time and you can always mix more; when you measure the PC Woody epoxy parts for mixing, use one popsicle stick for only that container of epoxy and wipe it clean with a paper towel soaked in acetone after getting the epoxy part off the stick and set it aside then do the same with the other epoxy part--scoop, deposit, clean and set aside; mix thoroughly the two parts of epoxy for at least 30 seconds to 1 minute, it should like light brown like fluff-n-nutter/peanut butter mixed with marshmallow; smear on the mixed epoxy and smooth it out as much as possible--PC Products says you can smooth it out with acetone to minimize sanding later but I found it to be a little difficult to not make a bigger mess so using the putty knife and layering was better for me even if it took a little more time to get to the final sand; warmer air and direct sunlight cuts down the epoxy work time so you may have to move faster at applying it during certain times of the day/season; let the dry fully,which is 24-48 hours before sanding because it will gum up and ruin the epoxy layer you had put on and need repair; if doing multiple layers, perfecting the smoothness of the repair, and sanding in between, wipe the surface down with acetone or rubbing alcohol to remove the dust; use wax paper, not parchment paper, to stick between the areas where you are putting the epoxy and where you do not want to end up with epoxy (see photos 4 & 5 show where I had to fill in missing wood at the bottom of the sill but I did not want it to seal or get on the siding below); CLEAN your plastic palette and putty knife after each time you apply the epoxy with acetone and paper towel so that you take off any residue and refresh those surfaces--your tools will not get gummed up and you will be able to mix more epoxy without issues; and, take your time. Also, if you need to attach something to what you are repairing, PC Products make a 2 part epoxy adhesive in a syringe for that--it worked great, did not sag and held a 1/4" piece of wood good as I went nailed it. I have used the PC Woody Epoxy and PC Petrifier years ago and I think the repair made then, although on wood in direct contact with the gravel on the ground, is still holding up. I am banking on that what I accomplished with the window sills will be as effective or more so because I don't want to revisit this particular house maintenance issue again. I can definitely tell you NOT to use Bondo on wood as was recommended to me years ago because it does not hold up at all. Bondo is actually more difficult to work with in my opinion, too. I recommend PC Woody.

I have ordered this item 4 times now for various projects. This stuff is strong, cures solid, and adheres well even in "thick" sections since it is a 2 part epoxy (in contrast to some DAP wood filler I tried, which didn't cure when in thick sections, was not sticking well). I used this outdoors to repair termite damage and damage from dry rot on doors and window frames. Note, it is pretty messy to work with because it is so thick and sticky, and starts curing after a few minutes. I ended up putting it on and not worrying too much about uneven surfaces, and doing LOTS of sanding. I also found that if I used some sturdy plastic packaging to make "forms" for edges and corners, and applied those "forms" onto areas where I had applied the PC Woody, the forms would come off easily after curing a day and be close to the final shape. From there you either sand or fill more. I removed one star because two of my orders had issues. The first one, the cap on the white Part A jar had loosened, and the contents had started to dry out. A hard crust had formed on the top. It was still usable. The second issue was the bottom of the Part B jar had cracked. I used tape and plastic cling wrap to seal it up so it wouldn't leak or dry out. For the price, they really need to package it better. Lesson: check the bottles thoroughly when you first receive from Amazon, make sure they are not dried out, tightly capped, and the bottles are not damaged.

Great product - easy to use and does what is claimed. Highly recommended.

Fácil de hacer la mezcla y usar , no pierde mucho volumen al secar y se lija bien .

this is a super good item. bonds well and is easy to use and sand and paint. but with confidence

Good but pretty small tube.

I had some very rotten windows and a decaying front door but no interest in using highly toxic chemicals to repair them and nowhere near enough money to replace them. After much research I found this. I closely watched a four part YouTube video on how to use it best (recommended) found a UK supplier on Amazon and then set to work in the hot dry weather of earlier this year. It's worth doing the proper prep work if you want it to last but that's true of any job. I sanded off the old paint (pretty much gone anyway) removed all the most rotten wood, drilled holes into the remaining frames/door (angled down where necessary to ensure maximum absorption) and coated all the wood and drill holes very liberally in PC Woody's wood hardener, which true to description has hardly any smell. I let it cure for a few days to very hard since even a spring heat wave doesn't match Arizona desert temperatures and drying time for both hardener and filler is temperature dependent. Then I took a glob from each of the epoxy wood filler tins in a 1:1 ratio mixed well and applied. It isn't the easiest stuff to apply, especially since I was replacing so much of the wood - I had to do it in layers. I recommend wearing latex gloves or similar as it's very sticky, but also true to advertising it doesn't have to be super smooth as it sands down really well and easily when fully dried. I also tried sawing and drilling it and that works too. It smells slightly while drying but nothing to notice (less than low VOC paint). For the record if you add slightly more brown than white it's more malleable but takes longer to dry and vice versa. And don't expect it to harden as fast as it would in a very hot dry climate, but once it does it's rock solid (again I left it a few days). Although the tins look tiny they do more than you'd think. After sanding and painting the windows and doors look like new. You can't tell what's the wood and what's the filler. But it won't look like natural wood without a bit of artistry if you aren't painting it. I'm so pleased there's a non toxic solution to fixing/filling rotten wood that doesn't carry danger of death warnings all over the tin. Yes it's a lot more expensive, but what price health?