Timken 513084 Axle Bearing and Hub Assembly

Installed today on my daughter's 1997 Jeep Wrangler SE, 4 cylinder, auto trans, 4 wheel drive. I replaced the front left wheel bearing assembly due to a broken wheel stud - I figured as long as I have to take the wheel bearing assy out in order to install a new wheel stud, might as well put a new wheel bearing assy back in. It was a perfect fit, appears to be well made, drove fine afterwards during 15 mile test drive on side roads and freeway. As a shade-tree mechanic, it took me about 3 hours. I used a lot of PB Blaster Penetrating Oil on the large 36mm wheel hub nut, on the three 13mm mounting bolts, and the corresponding flange where the wheel bearing assembly mates up to the steering knuckle. I also wire brushed the protruding threads of the 3 mounting bolds before removing them. This allowed for a fairly easy removal and no snapped/stripped/broken bolts. Also, take note of the orientation of the brake dust shield so you put it back on in the same direction/position. Interestingly, I ordered this Timken part on Amazon's Warehouse Deals for something like $30. Like their other warehouse deals, it is treated as a "used" part because someone else ordered it and returned it - so the box is opened & taped shut, item might be scratched from a previously attempted install, etc. My part was just fine, with just some tape on the box holding it shut. But, instead of getting a Timken, I was sent a MOOG Wheel Bearing Assembly in a bright blue & yellow Moog box! Awesome! I consider Moog to be the best suspension parts on the planet, so obviously I'm a happy camper. But I've read Timken makes the best Jeep wheel bearings too, so either one is great with me. In researching this repair job (reading forums and watching YouTube videos), I found that there are a couple possible variations on these parts, depending on if your Jeep came with "Full Cast Rotors" (or, with standard / composite rotors I guess?) There may be differences in wheel stud length and overall wheel bearing assembly depth/height. So when I took the old one off, I laid it side by side on the bench with the new one, and on top of each other, to make sure all the dimensions were the same before proceeding (they matched). I did the same with new brake rotors, matching the new ones to the old ones before proceeding. The depth/height of the mounting hub in the center ("the hat") can be deeper/taller by about 1/8" or 1/4" (?) - so make sure they match the dimensions of your old ones. I laid the old and new rotors flat on the bench with hat facing down and large rotor portion facing up, and the heights lined up nicely next to each other. I laid them on top of each other to ensure the diameters were also the same. I think the overall height can be either 3 1/16" or 3 3/16" (?) depending on which rotor you have. You just don't want to complete the job then find out your wheels won't turn because the rotors (or wheel bearing assy) are the wrong ones.

So far so good. The product fit fine. Good installation. No issues, only had them installed for a couple months now.

A lot of times bearings off sites can be reboxed and make to look like name brand but they are not. These are legit timken bearings I’m happy with the price and the quality. I would either run these or moog that’s all I have had good luck with. These are my number one choice and they are legit

I read all the reviews and it came down to an economic / frustration trade off type decision. This assembly and apparently all of it's competitors fit well. The question is: do you want to pay double for the highest quality or pay half of the Timken and maybe have to replace again down the road. I decided I wanted to do this just one time. I tend to put a lot of miles on a vehicle in the back country. Other considerations: these hub assembles take a while to totally fail. My factory original hub assembly started making a "power steering pump low on fluid" sounding noise about 10K before I replaced it - total mileage on this one was about 240K. The other side went out about 5 years ago with only about 120K on it but, unlike the left, the right side made a roaring sound. Neither of them totally failed, I just got tired of hearing the warning sounds. It's easy to replace yourself. You can "borrow" the special tools from the major autoparts stores and there are YouTube videos that will lead you through it. Pay particular attention to the trick of putting a short socket wrench extension between the hub (or hub bolt) and the axle housing and the starting of the engine (power steering) and turning the steering wheel in the direction necessary to break the hub free. Saves a lot of hammering. Good luck.

I was happy to pay almost twice as much for a geniune Timken bearing as opposed to a no name brand. I was doing a full on front brake job using the highest quality parts Raybestos offered . It was a perfect time to replace the front bearing hubs . Brakes and hubs perform awesome. I would recommend using brand name parts . Very pleased with Amazon/Timken.

UPDATE: New axles and axle nuts solved the failing bearing issue. When installed correctly, the worn hardware did not allow the torque applied to remain. The torque was slowly diminished and the bearings failed. I wish the manufacturers would include replacement hardware with their bearings. Wheel backspacing was not a factor here as the vehicle is stock. Previous review: Within 2 years, this unit was beginning to fail. I warrantied it against one from AutoZone that I had also purchased. In fact, both units (one from here and the other from AZ) both have grease puking out of the back. I will not be trying Timken again. Sad to see such good products turn to s***.

Well built. Super smooth bearings. I did my research and aside from Tim Ken bearings being the best on the market, these are stronger than factory. I found this importance since I’m running 35” tired on my 98’ TJ. They fit great. No issues. These were cheaper on Amazon than getting junk at my local auto parts store.

Anything worth doing is worth doing right... If you are looking for quality parts you are going to spend a little more money; the Timkin hubs we got for our '95 Jeep grand Cherokee are really good quality. Very solid, and they feel like they were packed well.... We are currently using this jeep as a daily driver, as well as off road, and it rides smooth with the new hubs. We will be buying Timkin again ((assuming we ever need to!))